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Shouldn't need them on a Clio II

That's all good then as I love my tunes and sometimes feel like the only fool on the planet that actually pays!

That and music purchased on iTunes Tom. It restricts the use to Apple only devices which, IMO at least, isn't cricket. If I buy a CD I can use it in any CD drive so why can't I use my digital music on say a Nokia or Blackberry?

The one thing I really like about Macs are the displays. Plus i use a legit install of SolidWorks so I couldn't justify the cost of buying licences for OSX When it comes to my mobile ive got both Blackberry and a 4S (i actually prefer RIM for email but thats Another debate). I've also come to...

LoLz - this reminded me of Ricky Bobby #shakeandbake

I was there earlier to. Did you have the phase 1 Exclussive?

Sounds like either an inlet leak or a faulty sensor input. I'd get it looked at though before you cruise up someone's arse.

Cough OCD's ahem ;-)

Just out if curiosity, what is that costing?

If you don't know what a CanBus network is I'd advise you don't play! Most common area for failures is the engine bay around the gearbox area

Hey, you never know! ;-) New keys are around £120-160 coded

Yes In that case then, either your soldering is terrible or the PCB has another fault somewhere. Maybe just buy a new key?

You need to be looking at newer JR5 boxes but I don't know if it will bolt straight on.

Probably the seat wiring but it will need plugging in to be sure.

It really needs fault finding on the CanBus network first of all to see what's not occurring and then I suspect you will need to check the wiring for breaks/corrosion

That would be my choice to Andy... Running this exact coil with my DTA S40pro for the 19 Scoff saves the day again

It could be a few possible issues but if you want to bring it in I'll gladly take a look for you. Mick Diamond Motors

They're easy... Just two 10mm bolts on the gearbox and a single multi plug chap. Mick

Or buy an external ignition amp module... Bosch make em for loads of cars especially the VW's. I believe EFI parts sell them to for around £60 Mick

Does the SMD (in your case, the switch) actually work (have you electrically tested it and confirmed it works)? You can't code a used key to another car.

Easy DIY but I'd consider fitting the updated blue sensor and fitting the new loom section. It's pricey but will stop it from happening again.

Okay, bypass it as there's a fault. Give the coil a direct +12v from the battery

That's on a bit more than "hand tight" then... You sure you were turning it the right way? If it were me I'd be using a flat drive and a hammer to try and knock it off. Be careful though as the housing is only cast. Mick

Faulty crank position sensor... Classic symptoms Mick

I've got no experience with Omex units but if I can help I will. What unit have you got and I'm assuming it has built in Coil drivers? Your coil has a good, stable +12v yes? If the unit is fuelling then it is obviously seeing engine rotation so I suspect a driver/module fault.

If its been fitted by an approved installer it'll be located behind the wiper motor or behind one of the front arch liners. Sometimes the controller is hidden away behind the dash which may have a brand or serial number on so try looking for this.

Cruise is probably down to a input failure such as the brake pedal switch. Ideally needs plugging in though to be sure. 3rd brake light... Welcome to Renault! Probably due to either water ingress killing the lamp unit or a poor connection at the rear of the unit... Pull it out and have a look...

There is a chance it is the UCH as it does control all of that but it could also be a wiring fault or a fault with the clusters (though its strange for both control clusters to go at the same time). If it is the UCH at fault you need to fin out why it's gone (age, moisture ingress) to stop it...

Check engine bay earths

How good is the jack? Sometimes, especially if its a cheap "Pearl of the Orient" type, it's just as cheap to scrap it and buy a new one.