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Aww man, that's the breakfast of champs right there! I'm a bit more traditional now I've given up tabs... 18 coffees before I even consider lifting the shutters and unlocking the tool chest.

Make sure he buys you breakfast!

Didn't Kwik-Fit offer to do a leak test? Mick

Yours sounds a bit different GMan but really you need to get it plugged in first and go from there as there's a few things that can cause the solid red light. Mick

I can understand some of the anger - Cosmetic mods are one thing and deffo down to personal taste but when you get a 17yr old wanting to bolt a C20LET into the front of a 1.2 Corsa without any consideration for updating other stuff it becomes dangerous... Some mods need doing right or need not...

It's because it's a two circuit switch and is linked to (obviously) the brake light circuit but also directly to the ECU and ABS as these need to know the status of the brake pedal.

I've had three of these this week alone and it seems to be coming a common failing (all Cups). Micro breaks in the dash wiring loom is the cause where the loom is clipped too tight. The solution is to either find these breaks and fix em all or buy a replacement loom section from Renault and...

I liked it

I will consult the books for you

R134a contains the lubricating oil

Depends on how far the rears have been adjusted. Normally you'd undo the big nut in the center then drop the hand brake lever... The drum will normally then slide off (with a bit of hammer /lever action if not) You may need to back off the shoes to get the drum clear of the hub. Don't forget...

IF it does need a UCH then you're looking at around £500 as they're coded to the car and not just anyone can do it. We do them for £390 and if we need the vehicles access code it's an extra £20. As for broken wiring this is where CLIP comes in to it's own as it runs a basic infrastructure test...

It's possibly not the fault of the people that did the belt change. It's possible that it's always been leaking and it's recently dipped below min. pressure. Unless there are signs of obvious damage I'm afraid there's no real way of proving otherwise so step one, digs to confirm the button is...

Seen this one many times before mate. If there's 5v at the ring, a good earth and the transponder line is continuous it will 100% be a new UCH. Not done too many this year, it seems to be all throttle issue at the minute. Anyway, fingers crossed its a feed/connection fault but if not bad...

Diagnostic first to confirm/deny he fault as low gas pressure or a mechanical/electrical fault. Then go from there

There's your problem then... It is seeing a door open

It's rare the decoder rings turn out to be the actual fault - I think I've changed one in 10 years. Normally, in my experience, these faults turn out to be either key or UCH related... But I hope the new ring fixes it. Mick

Nope, the system is balanced and requires a min gas pressure to be able to work (Min 0.9Bar I think). If the system shows a pressure lower than this the compressor will not engage to protect it. The same is true if the external temp is below 4 degrees C... The R134a isn't a true gas below these...

Sounds like it needs a synchro and bearing rebuild mate and it's normally 3rd that goes.

So does that mean your not selling it to me for £600? Gay!

Why don't you get somewhere else to plug it in? Needs drags to confirm but it's prob a fuelling or ignition related fault (maybe even CTS). Mick

Id recomend the Armatech setup... Its £200 but worth it. Scuttle is the accepted normal for the power and fire triggers and you can always adjust the position of the wiper arm to give it clearance

Ash, we're in Long Eaton mate. We've just issued our new lower prices last night on belts and dephasers from £540 down to £465 on a Cup... Might be worth becoming a paid member ;) Mick

75w/80 or 75w/90 GL5 will be mint mate. I've used ELF, Gulf, Tetrosyl and Millers before without any issues. Mick

Mega common mate and a 20min job to swap out... You will notice a difference until it goes again in 14months time. Mick

Code reading isn't diagnostics and a faulty CTS will never bring up a code. Tell the idiot driving the machine to look at the live data and that he's specifically looking for a nice progressive increase in the sensors value. Any jumping around or a reading of -2 when the engine has been running...

okay then, in that case i'd personally want it on diags to confirm the fault as being a duff CTS or not and then replace if required... but you can make a decision on that yourself.

Without seeing, most likely cause... faulty thermostat. Do you find it goes up when the car isn't moving and then falls when you start driving again? Mick

Electrical Fault Light

Lambda has no bearing upon idle or engine speed... It's 100% an inlet track leak. What exactly have you done and why?