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Why would you touch the wiper motor? LoL - Pull the wiper motor assembly and probe the light washer pump motor

I'd pull the wiper motor assembly and probe the motor/meter the feed to see if it's getting power then. They're common for not working due to poor connection/water ingress Mick

Egg smell is normally unburnt fuel entering the CAT rather than the CAT itself... More likely to be an ignition or injection fault

I'd get it all checked; alternator, waterpump, PS and if all is good fit a new belt kit

120Gb isn't enough? As above, maybe you need a home network or to move some stuff to an external large cap drive that you can backup regularly.

That's correct, a cup without A/C I'm just updating my prices now and they'll be posted later next week so DON'T take this as an actual quote AS IT IS LIKELY TO CHANGE SLIGHTLY but a FF 172/182 with dephaser pulley using genuine parts and ELF SXR oil from Diamond Motors is looking at being...

I spoke to O2 about it this morning what with the iP5"October" rumour mill starting to turn and O2 confirmed that if I wanted to swap my current iP4S in launch week for the iP5 (or whatever it was called) they would fast track the order and swap the handset as its part of the lease agreement.I...

I lease mine thru the O2 business... works for me as i'm on phone No.2 this year.

Cups are simples and I could probebrly get it down to the £450 mark with some strategic discounting. We normally charge £300 for a Cup timing belt and then the dephaser and other bits bump another £200ish to the job so from £500 to £450... not a massive discount but its £50 better off in your...

We're coming in at £491.35 for the same job using genuine parts: Timing belt kit (with end caps) Aux Belt Oil Filter Elf SXR Oil Camshaft fixings & oil seals Crank pulley bolt Dephaser pulley Mick

On a Cup, using Cup bracketry, its simples! Mick

Thats similar looking but not the correct part number on the OTS.... that might be for a vehicle with ESP though and without checking the part number against a vehicle I couldn't say for sure. Mick

He's at Wolves or he was when I spoke to him yesterday.

Mint but be aware that some equipment (Snap-On) tends to give out useless codes that mean nothing. Try and get DF codes if possible and we'll be in a much better position to help and advise you if you need us. Mick

Check that the ECU upper bracket hasn't broken. It does and can cause an annoying rattle at low speeds. Mick

There was an OTS on this back in 2002... micro breaks in the cabin loom and there's a specific loom section to buy that runs from the pedal direct to the white plug "R65" in the engine bay fuse box. Have you checked the resistance values on tracks 1 and 2 to see if they're okay? Mick

Renault dealership in Wolves... Speak to Adam in parts and let him know you're a CS member so he can add 30% ;) Mick

Halfords usually stock the "Ring" variants Luke... between £11-16 Mick

2A mini-blade fuse is, IIRC, for the Decoder Ring Transmission > UCH power feed. If the car is starting its prob a spare thats fallen out but the headlamp washers are (again, IIRC) on the main washer jet fuse. Are you main washers working and can you hear the light jets fire? Mick

Its a 1.2 8/16v so not hard to work on and its gonna be on 10w/40 semi-synthetic oil... not a bank buster to keep happy these things.

In that case then I'm very close as i'm in Long Eaton which is 15mins from Derby city center so when you're up his way next you've got two options: Option #1: £90 Elf Oil, Genuine Oil Filter, Cabin Filter and Air Filter Option #2: £60 Motrio Oil, Type approved Oil Filter, Cabin Filter and...

What kind of service are you looking for exactly; oil and filters plus plugs or are we talking full on coolant, thermostat, gearbox oil, brake fluid? We are in Nottingham and do various levels of servicing on all Renaults not just the sports so if you want any further info get in touch...

CLIP check to rule out the sensor array... I've seen a few with faulty camshaft position sensors cause this before as they're mega common on the K4M's aswell as the newer F4R's but its not an overly cheap sensor and it normally causes a "Beeeep" followed by "Injection Fault" to appear on the MFD...

A larger rolling radius will have no bearing upon the castle nuts ability to hold torque/clamping force. It will naturally try to unwind as interia effects it. This is why we use Loctite on assemblies or nylock fixings as the plastic helps resist the unwinding effect. I am willing to bet the...

Are you re-using the driveshaft nut? If so you should consider replacing it as they are nylocks and I bet the nylon band is non-existant Mick

Covered loads of times before why it's needed... Use it, don't use it... Its your car and if you're insisting on doing the work wrong you must take responsibility for your actions.

I remove the aux belt, bumper trim, associated support bracketry and it all comes out perfectly thru the drivers side nostril... Around 1.5hrs work if your used to them.

Where are you based? We're in Nottingham and may be able to help: http://www.diamondmotors.net/diamond-motors-welcome/diagnostics Mick

As above, most likely causes are a stuck/sticking/fucked throttle or an induction track leak. I also like to pull the plugs out but that's to make life easier manually advancing the crank plus also to make sure they're all present and correct... if not I give Chinese burns and inflict Justin...

For the seats yes and if you don't have the ability to LOCK the detonators disconnect the battery before you do any work. Then simply create a nice soldered joint and protect it with a good quality heat shrink... Then you're done. The drivers airbag fault will most likely be down to a busted...