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By non-universal I mean anything that's not a cheap copy or requires you to cut and solder wires to your existing plugs.
You should be able to pick up an NGK/NTK item for under £100 and they're quality.
I love working on Cups - its how they all should be! The Cup belt can still do damage if it gets wrapped around the bottom pulley and whilst it's not as common to slip the timing it is still possible so for £12-18 extra, change it!
How did he manage to pinpoint it as being MAP sensor related?
Yes it's entirely possible but normally a map sensor would cause it to be s**t everywhere rather than just at low grunt. Does it miss when being revved and not under load or is it only an issue under load?
Mick
Thermostat and housing is a one piece plastic unit on the 1.2 and it goes brittle which allows the seal to go inside the housing and causes the leak.
100% needs a new stat which will come with a new seal.
The heater element for the Ho2 sensor is part of either the upstream or downstream senors (which in this case is the upstream/pre-CAT sensor)?
The first thing you should do in this case however is check the wiring to the upstream sensor as they have a habit of getting burnt or crudded up. If...
LoL at the main dealer not having an oil pressure test kit... They must employ a fictional writer in that franchise to come up with these excuses. I wonder what they do when a Clio with a DPO auto box comes in with shifting problems.
As long as its checked and confirmed as being on the money...
I'd say ring seal/blow-by is the most likely cause of that not stem seals.
Compression test and a leak down test would be the next step. Is it high mileage this car or has it just been punished?
Mick
No, it's an oil pressure switch not an oil pressure sensor... It can only see when oil pressure drops below a preset value.
Luke, that mayo build up is normal in a tCe which is why you have to remove te remote filler tube and clean it when servicing. The wife's is exactly the same mate.
So...
Needs a proper check mate... I did the same on an RB182 yesterday with a minor, temperamental misfire but we fixed that (Needed a plug and injector on No.1)
Check injectors, plugs, leads, compression and finally timing in that order.
Another thing to check is that the new pads are seated correctly. A common fail is where people don't get the boss on the back of the pad sat in the piston notch.
Check the snap shot information before clearing down the codes... This info can help when using ODB readers.
From above it appears the problem is down to cylinders 3 & 4 so if it's a waste spark ignition, unless it's got a lead issue, it rules out an ignition fault. Next step would be to...
Re: Clio 1.2 8v wont start after new battery today lost all power and slowed to a sto
It could be a fair few things... Cheap code readers work in these situations.
Neverseen this before I'm afraid but I'd suggest you confirm the basics are good first; make sure all earths are good and then check for corrosion in any connections of the coponents that you're having problems with.
Mick
As above, there is a length tollerence on them as they're a stretch bolt. Perfectly safe to reuse if it's in tollerence and tightened up correctly but for the price why would you take the chance? Just sling a new one in
It will ned turning off mate. It will eventually self rectify but for speed just plug it in. The new rules are indeed being enforced as of May 1st, 2012.
Also another cheerful one which should worry some; having a decat fitted to a vehicle that should have a CAT irregardless of warning light...
Where's the LIKE button!?!
K-Seal is the Devil as it lines the entire coolant system and will eventually cause all your rubber pipes to split. It also blocks the heater matrix up and can cause other problems. The only way to fully purge it from the coolant system is to replace everything...
What relays have you been playing with? Interested purely as I can't see any relay on the schematic that relates to the clock set. Any chance of a video of it playing up?
Just don't get upset if it does something unexpected or breaks when you plug the USB lead in. Some are quality, others lack it but they're copies so you can't really complain.
Windows are not testable mate so as long as the doors open and shut they won't care. Does the CL button in the dash work? It could be a general fault with the door looms or a simple fuse issue and even though I'm confident it won't be rocket science to get it all working again it really needs...