Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Keep your drain points clean, ensure the windscreen doesn't leak and don't feed it after midnight. Apart from that there's not much you can do really other than ensure the inside area isn't getting wet. I've got a Billabong coming in today with what I suspect is more UCH joy as the girl said on...
If you look closley you can see where the printed tracks have burnt out... if there's a cleaning product that can repair that then let me know about it.
Not really no - Be prepared to shell out £380
I tested the UCH relay responsible for the unlocking on the above unit and found it to be buggered so it was replaced with a new part along with any obvious damage to the PCB tracks which was repaired and the board reflowed... this didn't work...
A good idea but wouldn't work. What happens when say the camshaft sprocket tool gets damaged or the crankshaft lock pin gets bent but isn't found until the someone else recieves it (and potentially uses it) in a damaged state?
This is why I don't lend my tools to people - they cost me enough...
And they call me a geek ;) No you're right, there are three plugs
@ Stephen - Can you get a photo of the passenger connection showing the face of the multiplug please?
As for the dephaser you can pretty much drive it if you like but when they get really bad, and to be clear i'm talking...
If the UCH was unplugged (It only has two multiplugs anyway) it wouldn't allow the vehicle to start.
Yep, sounds like you've purchased a problem child. My advice would be to either sell it on and walk away or take it to someone to get it fixed up correctly as its not going to be cheap...
Most likely cause is the UCH is fried i'm afraid.
I've had a couple of these recently where the UCH has gotten wet and its taken out the central locking relays and the PCB tracks. If it were one of my cars I'd whack it on the clip and see if the UCH is detecting and attepmting to "switch" or...
That's a fairly serious overload... any idea what circuit it's from? The loom can be fixed if you can identify what was what I'd say but i'd also be checking all the fuses to make sure they're the correct ratings for each circuit as I suspect that's been caused by an incorrectly rated fuse...
Pete, its going to be easier to get a new belt and I'll come over and hook you up matey ;)
Remember, your upper engine mount is shot to and if the engine is canting under load the outer edge of the belt may be getting fraid.
Mick
I'm here to run a business, try to provide a genuine service and not scare cash out of anyone... personally. I hate that aboutgeneral garages but sometimes the scare mongering is justified and I honestly believe the F4R timing belt service is one of them. I've just done a gorgeous petrol blue...
If it was an air leak in the inlet track it would be holding a high base idle... normally 2.5-3k rpm.
Deffo have it plugged in for a live data session... could be H02, CTS, MAP - the list goes on.
Re: Misfire issue which is solved by a restart - spark plugs, leads, coilpack 6 month
Pull the MAP sensot, blast it with carb cleaner, dry off the refit and retry.
If the engine symbol MIL was on then in short, a fault code would have been logged. Either they didn't want to tell you what the fault was (it happens a lot as a garage doesn't want you to go fix it yourself or take the work elsewhere) or the kit the were using was shite. I've seen a few...
It's 100% timing belt on this engine and an easy one at that with nice, clear markings.
There will be loads of guides floating around the net to help you setup the valve clearances... failing that, a local garage will proberbly do it for under £25.
Mick
@Matt,
You may be better off starting your own thread rather than attempting to hijack this one as I suspect your fault isn't the "same" as the OP's due to you having a de-cat... do you have an egg smell in your car?
@Ben,
If the hacksaw is too destructive for your tastes right now remove...
And also achieve something BMW's design team failed to create... something worth looking at. This car is like Cher Lloyd and one of those things I wish I could un-see
Yep, a Haynes for the D7F will show you how to do everything. Trust me though, timing and tappets on this engine is child's play so take your time, read up the process before starting work and providing you understand it and allow yourself time you'll be fine. Also, no specialist tools required...
Timing belt check on these is easy. Jack under sump, remove engine mount and cover bolts - Inspect timing belt for obvious signs of damage (though for the price, around £37 IIRC, you might aswell fit a new kit if you've got this far).
Setting tappets is a real easy DIY job but you will need a...
Firstly, comfirm the timing belt setup is okay and then, as above service it... oil and filter isn't much for the D7F. Secondly, reset the tappet clearances... this needs to be done when the engine is cold.
Mick
Not entirely true Danny, there is a timing mark on the crank. There is a notch for a woodruff key and when 1/4 are at TDC it lines up with a casting mark. To be fair though its more of a "Confirmation you've got the crank pin inserted correctly" mark than an actual timing mark.
It does 100%...