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If i'm correct, its been a while since i've seen a D4F Clio II, the fan is ECM controlled and a signal is taken from the coolant temp sensor in the cylinder head. It'll be one of the following causing the fault: Controlled earth to the fan control relay at fault +12v wire to the fan control...

It'll be the Climate sensor fan.... very common and has been covered a fair few times before buddy. Its nothing to worry about but it is very annoying. You can strip the unit down and clean it up or you can go to Renault, hand over the best part of £100 and then fit a new part. Mick

Deffo sounds like a toasted and collapsed CAT - time for a new one! I echo the above, disconnect from Pre-CAT section + run engine + annoy neighbors. If it runs fine you have conclusive proof its the CAT. Mick

I can understand why he *thought* it was a good idea... hold the tensioner spring with something like a jubilee clip then quickly buzz off the 18mm and allow the belt to drop as well as improving access to the water pump - what could possibly go wrong huh? (Face - Palm). Finding and setting TDC...

Oh, Hai der! Check your posting though buddy.... wrong section ;) Mick

A flashing MIL means you've got a Level 2 fault; its not so serious that it restricts the driving of the vehicle but it can do damage to the CAT if you don't get it rectified. Normal causes are faults in the injection or ignition system but a diagnostic session will tell you exactly what and...

Oh dear... that's done it! The crank has no woodrough key as it is a floating setup... I'm sure you're now aware of this. Did you hear any kind of metallic "Tink" noises when you cranked it over? DON'T attempt to run the engine again but can you remember if it made any attempt to fire up when...

You will need tocheck and set the valve clearances manually... its part of the service schedule on these but MUST be done with the engine cold. Mick

That means absolutely nothing... might be the code reader itself saying everything is okay. This is why we don't use cheap readers from eBay in the trade ;)

Stalker alert Ollie!!!

Yes it'll be detecting too much O2 so the mV will be right down and possibly assuming there's a leak in the exhaust allowing O2 in. Clear it and see if it comes back. If not, great - carry on until it does and reset it again. If it comes back striaght away its possibloe you have a wiring...

Both of those part numbers are vendor specific numbers. The actual Conti-Tech part number for the kit you want is CT977K1 between 2000 - 2001 and CT977K2 for vehicles 2001 onwards. I've never fitted a K1 before so couldn't tell you the difference but I suspect it'll have the same belt...

Thats terrible - its almost like someone purposefully designed it to look disabled

It can do yes - My Alfa was parked up in the corner of a farmers field for two years. Because of this the A/C control relay and main earth for the SRS had given up so needed repairing before either would work again. Easy enough fix IF you know what you're doing but SRS really isn't an area to be...

These engines are heavy breathers and a swimming pool of oil in the resonator box is normal - Pull the inlet off and you'll be able to see the source.

Doesn't have a MAF - It'll deffo be TB/IACV related Mick

First things first then, I'd be pulling the TB out of the inlet and giving it a bloody good clean as chances are its not been done in a long, long time. Then I'd be looking at the wiring as the 1.2 16v is plagued with electrical gremlins. Whoever you take it to, just be sure they know the Clio...

That's what the missus said the other night... best 15mins she's had I tell ya! Nagh, parts washers take too long mate; elbow grease, wire brush (Not too harsh obviously) and a tin of brake cleaner.... Job done. I did one on a K4J Clio II in Sheffield on Wednesday and admittedly the cover...

Plugs: NGK 4xPFR6E-10 Oil: 5w/40 Fully Sythentic Belt kits look right

Personally I always use the Renault kits as I get them at a great price but if people ask me to do it cheaper I've used Continental 'Conti-Tech' kits without any issues as my local SKF supplier is on drugs and wants too much. Even the Conti-Tech tensioner sets are all OE (Littens) and the belts...

Is it actual vehicle speed dependant or is it engine speed dependant? Wheel bearings or binding brake are a good place to start so have a feel for slightly warm rims after a good drive. Mick

Yep its a job that involves taking the covers off, clean up the mating faces and re-seal them... its an extra 15-20minute job when doing the timing belt and the best time really. He will need to take the pulleys off though to get the covers to come away from the cams but if the person doing your...

What Clio is it please... 172, 182 or something else? It really should be looked at matey as there's a few things it could be but without seeing it makes it hard to say what exactly... oh and guessing can get expensive! I'm only in Nottingham if you want to drop in or Fred is in Birmingham and...

I guess they would be compatible but I bet they look even worse behind a cheap, aftermarket dial face set and shine thru too much causing it all to "white-out" Each to thier own but i'd leave the standard SMD's alone Mick

Even at idle speed the crank is pushing the pistons up and down over 800 times a minute and the valves are double that - It will have bent some of them and they may not be overly obvious when closed so pull the head and open each valve to see the stems and if there are any signs of damage...

Non bar the price you will have paid. Tensioner and idlers are all OE Spec and the belts are the same bar with the exception of the Renault item will have a "7701" number printed on it where as I don't believe the Gates one will.

The orange "SERV" lamp is there to say "take me to a dealer" as something isn't quite right but you're okay to carry on driving and also as above, check the basic things first such as oil level as this can bring on the "SERV" lamp if its low. Failing that, I suspect some other bulb has either...

Valves will have bent... sorry, I don't do loaning of my tools as they always get mistreated/misused.

Bring it down... I'll gladly take a look at it for you sometime. Mick

I agree, check the ECM has +12v where required when the key is turned first as it can't recognise rotation or prime the fuel pump if its not actually working. Mick