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Re: 182 performance hesitating when reaching the variable cam timing point in the rev +1 - It's the best way to go. Could be Incorrect timing, Knock-Sensor, Dephaser Solenoid, Oil Pressure, Engine condition, H02, MAP-Sensor or even a combination of them all. Mick

Replace the switch yes and yes, it comes out of the dash. I'm sure there's a guide on how to do this in the members area mate... well worth the £12 a year it is ;) Mick

i'd check your thermostat to... Could be sticking/leaking open and would cause a similar issue. If the coolant was going thru the rad at motorway speeds your core engine temps will be down and the CTS is possibly reporting correctly. Pop it in one day next week and i'll take a look at testing...

Come to mine tomorrow... I've got a few on shelf. Yours, brand new and sealed for £25

No its good that he's felt confident enough to do it and as he's obviously taken his time to do it right I to give a well deserved "Well done"... its not as hard a job as the document would have you believe is it and that's not a bad timescale for your first attempt. The main things any DIYer...

Sometimes its not a fouled connector at fault itself but the wire which can break at the crimp so no current can flow thru. Give it a good wiggle and if it breaks off simply replace the spade terminal (Use another sleeved one to prevent arching)

Why do you need to Fred? Old belt off, switch the tensioner and guides, New belt on, whack the tensioner up and its done.... right? :rolleyes:

I'm in Nottingham if you fancy the drive... My Coffee is pretty damn good to (Which is normally free)

Yep, Most likely the Knock-Sensor

Yep it'll be the YAW Sensor Signal that is causing the DF079 to be present. The sensor itself is located in the area just under the handbrake and chances are the pins are green as its a damp-ish area. Disconnect the battery, then the sensor and clean up the connectors with a good electrical...

So many problems... where to start? LoL Where are you based buddy? Mick

Yes it would and from what you've said it did in the form of the decoder ring... the problem is no doubt still there but hasn't been fixed/diagnosed correctly in the first place. I'll gladly come out and take a look at it for you tomorrow afternoon if you'd like? Normally i'd say bring it to...

You can check the circuit works and rule out an adjustment issue by removing the switch from its bracket and with it connected up still simply 'work' the switch; If brake light operation is observed to be correct then you need to setup the switch position correctly. If not, you will need to test...

Where are you from matey? It might be worth getting it in to one of the many specialists that are on this site for a good look as problems like these are nigh on impossible to diagnose without really seeing the car. It could be connected to the dephaser failure but it could also be something...

Just a word of warning... changing the Turbo on a K9K isn't as easy as it first appears. It can be done but be prepared for some scuffed knuckles and loads of swearing. Mick

Okay, the 3 speed MB1 box does indeed have a strainer which needs to be replaced as per the AD4 4 speed unit. Remove the sump (after draining off the oil of course) and you should see it.It says to replace the seal at the sametime also. Mick

The stud is user changeable as its a stretch stud... works in the same way a stretch bolt does which is why we always check them for signs of tapering when the exhaust pulley is removed and replace if necesary. You will need a good stud extractor/insert set to put it in properly though or you...

Is it unlocking the column when the card is inserted? Really needs plugging in to say for sure i'm afraid chap as I doubt its fuse related. When was the last time it ran? Mick

They won't just swap them i'm afraid... they were no doubt a special order but it was, in my opinion, bad form to not tell you that there is a service kit containing these items for about the same money as i'm sure they order a few for the workshop.

If its well out then you'll see "by eye" but you can't tell properly i'm afraid without the camshaft locking tool.

Can't say for sure without plugging it in - Plug it in, kill the code and you're done for another few hundred miles (if you're lucky) before it comes back again. Mick

Inlet 0.1mm, Exhaust 0.2mm both @ cold Mick

I'll need your vehicle type code and gearbox code matey to be able to look it up. Drop me a PM Mick

Were there any otehr codes stored along with this prior to being cleared especially DF009 ? Chances are it'll be either a faulty "Dual Air Valve" Solenoid or there is a wiring fault... Pop it in and i'll gladly take a look at it for you. Mick

Did you buy the cam pulley nut and bolt seperate then as Renault do a service kit containing everything you need bar the crank pulley bolt.

Simple slim-line spark plug removal tool

What Clio? What Engine? Have you checked to see if fuel is getting up? We can't offer you a mirical answer without seeing the car i'm afraid so the more info you give us the better we'll be able to help you. Mick

Yep, that'll be the banjo bolt for the dephaser pulley and dont forget to fit those new oil seals that come in the bag to ;) Inlet cam bolt = 100Nm, Inlet cam nut = 30Nm + 86 degrees (+/- 4 degrees).

What car is it Gary as it sounds more like IACV issues? If the car cuts out/stalls out the battery and stop lamp will come on and unlikely to be the alternator or wiring. If it comes on when you're driving/idling then its possible.

Well, if you're stuck the offer is there