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The only worry I have is that if this "Group N" tool is used to advance say +8 degrees what happens when the dephaser pulley eventually starts to play up and introduces even more advance in the form of 'play'... do we get bent valves? Obviously its a risk you boys take if you do this to your own...

Should be a simple case of fitting a gearbox sender unit... new or used part will do the job and neither cost much and are DIY jobs.

Not likely to be TDC - What plugs did you fit?

Check the coolant temp sensor is plugged in and is working correctly. When this is in open-circuit the ECM turns on the fan incase the vehicle is in an overheat situation. Mick

Correct, it simply sets the inlet cam position to a slightly advanced position to give some gains though I've still not seen any figures from using this tool yet (I'm keen to buy one and offer it as an option for my timing belt service). You use this as oppsed to the standard camshaft locking...

First and Second pics are of the inlet breather pipe... this connects to a take-off on the rear of the inlet manifold. Reach around the gearbox side and you'll feel it. The Third photo is indeed the gearbox breather and its not blocked off, its a one way valve ;) Mick

Oh I saw that beast of a Duster to - now that moved! I went to see a Polish LHD Logan with a view to buying it but the guy wanted silly money for it and wouldn't budge so walked away. I will have one though and it will be F4R'd. I've even spoken to R-UK about parts and they can be sourced...

Who's doing that? I'll beat it and do it for £70 if you're supplying discs and pads. Mick

I to not only love this car but want one also... been saying that I want to F4R one ever since I saw the Logon S2000 version: This: Doing this:

You can take it off and physically inspect its internals and run the vehicle with it off to see if it cures it... other than that though i'm afraid you're out of luck. Does sound like a fekked CAT with the eggy smell. Possibly the cause of you MIL being on to. Bring it in and i'll gladly take...

This - Comes as a kit containing both camshaft oil seals, Depahser pulley bolt and exhaust camshaft nut... essential to change items really.

The Civic belt change is a stupidly simple job in comparison to the Clio II 2.0 16v hence its £200 Vs £450-650. Its just another example that makes people think Renaults are poorly designed when they're anything but... they just need some serious TLC every 5 yrs which isn't bad really as they...

1. Harpham 2. jacko_172 (maybe) 3. Will CS197 4. Crippinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn! 5. Hutchy182 6. Marky_ 7. Tow B. (maybe) 8. Sym0n faggot 9. ch!ppen (maybe) 10. MicKPM (I'm in and all over it like a fat kid on cake)

Ollie, in most cases you will get away with it but there's always going to be a time when it sends a spike back to the ECM and pops the ignition driver relays or burns the PCB tracks out.

My bad, the CUP less dephaser is £280... £380 was for the FF 172/182 Mick

If you have a multi-meter to hand switch it to read resistence and put the probes across the two injector terminals - Let us know what reading you get.

Nagh, let them carry on and blow theECM's coil drivers Shep... sometimes learning the hard way is the only way people learn Ideally it needs diagnostics to say exactly what is causing the missfire and on which cylinder as it could be a coil but it could also be an injector (Though my money is...

You won't be able to do this as the RS Tuner cannot program the SRS/UCH modules. For that level of control you will need to go to somkewhere that has full dealer level CLIP diagnostics... Renault, RenTec, Myself If you're at Silverstone this weekend for Trax i'm there offering this very service...

The D4F is normally a bomb proof (Mechanically) engine but is known for the thermostat housing matey... Change this with a new, genuine item (Around £35 iirc) and fit a new stat to (between £8-17) then refill and bleed the coolant circuit. The housing is plastic and so eventually goes brittle...

There's always me to in Nottingham and believe it or not I actually do a pretty good job also ;) Timing belt on a CUP is £380 (Dephaser adds an extra £153) Mick

A brake pedal switch would've given its own fault code though IF it was responsible and most times its rare the switch actually needs replacing. He's seeing a fault code specifically relating to the OFR wheel

To answer your question: NO, the part you describe is part of the main hub which is a single CNC'd piece and whislt you can press this out of the Stub axle assembly you cannot do this without a bearing press and its a fun job either. Though they're there for a reason you can get away without...

It only takes "trying" to overload a wiring loom to start the wires off burning especially with a 30A fuse in a circuit 10A circuit such as the secondary lighting circuit with 0.35 wiring! You will have a short to positive somewhere on the circuit meaning time to trace it and look for the break...

Common sense should be making the alarm bell in your head ring - Do what you like but I check the timing/dephaser for £35 and that includes new end caps... i'd tell them no thanks and go elsewhere.

£300 on a D4F? Fek me, i'm not charging enough.... I bang these 1.2 16v's out and do timing belt kit and water pump for £180 for CS members

No more than £350 is my honest opinion for a true specialist to supply and correctly replace the timing belt kit on a Clio 172/182 Cup *UNLESS* it needs a dephaser pulley in which case the part alone is going to be an extra £153-170. Also, be sure they are aware of the numerous parts other than...

It needs to go to someone that knows what they're doing really... don't waste anymore cash guessing! There's plenty of reputable specialists on here that can and will be able to fix this for you. Mick

As above, except i'm £280 for a Cup less dephaser. If you're taking it ot a true "Specialist" then they will most likely be the same and not becuase we're making s**t loads on the part becuase in truth we make very little on them. I've fitted parts that have been sourced by the customer before...

Easy job: Front end up, wheels off, front bumper off and head lamps, drop gearbox oil & coolant, remove drive shafts, disconnect coolant pipes and wiring (remember the coolant pipes to the heater matrix), Exhaust manifold off, remove rear engine mount, support engine with crane, remove LH and...

So it was diagnosed with a misfiring on #3 and that wasn't helpfull? To me that tells me exactly where the problem with your cars lays so pull the plug, inspect it and repace if required. Also, carry out a compression test to that cylinder. Then check the injector and finally scope the injector...