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As Jonny has already said its going to be UCH related and will need a CLIP, possibly a new UCH to resolve. That means a trip to either a local dealer or a specialist such as myself who has this equipment i'm afraid. Mick

Yep, you'll need all three of them: Crank Pin Camshaft Position Lock Tool Camshaft Sprocket Lock Tool Mick

Much quicker job on the Scenics with the F4R and yes, it will have the VVC dephaser pulley. You will need to change the full timing belt kit, aux belt kit, camshaft end plugs, crankshaft pulley (If over max length tollerance), and camshaft pulley nut/bolt. Also, be sure to check the dephaser...

Blocked CAT is the most liekly cause but a faulty/stuck injector coil can also cause this though its rare for them to constantly pump fuel. Easiest thing to DIY is remove the CAT, run the engine and see if it runs smooth and okay again. Mick

If You've got the Sigma or Cobra setup you can easily remove all this and repair the wires

To cut it to badics means a simple circuit that gives power and earths to:Engine managementFuel pumpLightingBrakes if you have ABSRip it all out, bin it and put in what you need. Its more work than you'd think though and dont forget to put in a good fuse box with a relay plate for things like...

What car is it? I suspect its to do with your UCH output. It will send a live feed to the dipped and then, when you flick to main, will drop it and send a seperate feed to the main which is why you're losing the dip beam. It will be simple enough to create a work-a-round

It won't be that simple as the UniChip essentially "tricks out" certain sensor values to be able to do its job. As above, a pinout is required Mick

It would deffo be diferent and create something to talk about but unless you're gonna do the conversion yourself it would be a huge pricetag for not much... Feel free to ask away though as we do more than just Clio's around here. Mick

Yep, very true but a decent used engine adds roughly (on average) £450 to the bill straight away just to purchase the tall block which is the timing belt, aux belt and dephaser pulley parts price. I always say "Better the devil you know" unless the engine you're repairing has done 100k or more.

Believe it or not that's not the cheapest way to go - You've got to fetch it, fit it and you'd be silly not to do the timing belt, clutch and some other bits to whilst you're there which already sends the bill to the £1200 mark. Then there's also the chance that you're buying a duff engine with...

RenaultNET has the Sachs front damper units - 8200514734 - listed as a pair with Retail at £1,189.01 + VAT (£1,426.81 Inc. VAT). I will send a parts request to Dieppe to ensure its 100% for the pair though but its not normally wrong however I won't hear back until Monday/Tuesday now. Rear Sachs...

Universals are terrible matey and normally work out a couple of quid cheaper than the genuine items... gonna start selling these myself shortly

Are you buying new and genuine Renault items? I suspect not

Yep, that's JB's Scenic Sport and is cracking in a straight line... also running LPG

I've pulled 11litres of oil from a smoking Focus 1.6 6v before due to that - One garage diagnosed it as a head gasket failure :rolleyes: Some people shouldn't be allowed access to under the bonet of a car.

I can do you those NEW at £95 each excluding delivery. Front pair is £950 less delivery Mick

I think it depends on the alternator and crank pulley that you're running... never attempted a Mk1 F4R hybrid before. The pictures you posted above though do show a 6PK pulley setup so unless you've got scrubbing issues i'd run the correct belt for the run to save it jumping again.

Oh and don't forget to check the Dephaser pulley... for the extra £153 thye cost I'd be sticking one on the parts bill also. Mick

Yep, its a DIS "waste spark" ignition system but not injection as this is sequential - The coil drivers fire in banks hence the "waste" of a spark but the injectors 1-4 & 2-3 don't fire at the same time as that wastes fuel and could cause other issues such as DET and bore-wash. It is getting to...

Is that your best chat-up line?

Clio II, Ph2 doesn't have the switches as its part of the door locking latch itself (ghey). Chances are its gonna be the drivers door as its the most commonly used one BUT diagnostics is the only real way to know which is faulty as you've no idea which latch is causing the open circuit. Failing...

Its a JC5 so why not? Ratios are slightly different IIRC but not enough to wreck the fun.

Ah right then, this is going to sound like a doom and gloom reply then no As its an auto DON'T convert it to an F4R-736 then as unless you're in the sports mode you're not gonna see the best from it and as the torque convertor isn't the best in that box and it'll cost you more to replace than...

That's very naughty indeed Tim.... I likes! As Danny has said, you need a 6PK belt not a 5PK... school boy error though asking for a Clio 16v belt

To do the job alone is easy in a weekend IF you're a competant DIYer and understand the process but you're going to need: Cylinder head gasket Cylinder head bolts Coolant Timing belt kit Aux. belt kit New valves Valve stem oil seals (Silly not to do them) Then, tooling wise you're going to...

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IF your multimeter has a diode or continuity test mode then it'll help trace the wires from point A to B. I don't have access to my wiring schematics at the minute i'm afraid as my tablet is locked away in the workshop but they're likely to be on here somewhere already (Search?) There's no...

Another thought, has anyone checked the fuel pressure yet?

Yep, time to start looking at wiring faults now... scope the trigger lines if you have access to one but I doubt you will as they're not everyday DIYer bits of kit (They start at around £700 and go up to £4k). If you don't have access to a scope you will first need to confirm that each injector...