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What description did it give other than "O/S/R Sensor fucked"... Cohernace issues or target not recognised? You will need to look at the wheel again i'm afraid and you may also need the machine or an oscillescope to hand. Firstly, get the vehicle jacked up on that corner and wheel off...

so... are you selling this or breaking it? I likes a good fixer-upper if the price is right. Mick

I've slung a few of these in to Clio's and Twingo's in the past - Easy enough conversion to carry out on the Clio I using Renault 19/5 mounts and the required wiring work is basic to say the least. I wouldn't say its a terrible engine providing the boost isn't stupidly high and the coolant...

How are the connections that the previous owner made to fit the new spec CPS as this can cause issues. Without diagnostics i'm afraid you're gonna be stuck as it could be a simple case of the ECM isn't 'seeing' rotation due to a faulty CPS signal. It could also be the main control relay not...

It does indeed but it could be a physical battery fault or it could simply be a poor connection.

Its not difficult so just take your time and all will be reet. Don't force anything either and mind your tools as i've seen people catch the battery live on the rear of the starter when doing this job... it makes you jump a bit ;) Mick

Homework for you: Remove the inlet, clean out the resonator box of all the pooled oil and give the throttle body a properly good seeing to with something like Carb or Brake cleaner. Mick

Start simple; Check the battery connections are clean and tight first of all then if you've got a multimeter check the basic battery voltage is good before finally performing a drop test... Note this does not mean take the battery off the vehicle, raise it up from the floor to a great height and...

You can pop out the camshaft setting point end caps and see if there's any free play in the inlet camshaft... these plugs WILL need replacing though so buy replacements BEFORE popping them out and do not run the engine without them. Mick

Sam, I mean't in general people would simply lift off, hit the brakes and close their eyes until the vehicle came to a full stop (with proper bent up bodywork).... and that is the wrong thing to do. This guy can clearly drive more than sheep!

Exactly... most people in that situation would either lift off and/or dab on the brakes which is totally wrong in those situations. Proper brown pant passenger ride that would've been.

ECM is under the bonet and the UCH is near the glove box under the dash.

Then earth condition and continuity isn't the issue for that position. Check the earths for the ECM and UCH... start in the engine bay junction box before going back further inside the vehicle as you may need a wiring "pin-out" for that.

Yeah, if their Dialogys is using the most up-to-date price listing discs then it will only show the "6000" part for the Clio I 172 type code now. I'd wager that there's actually no difference between the two parts physically and that you'll be happy with the eBay purchase/cash saving Mick

The earth you're testing and its source which in this case is the battery Negative pole. Bare in mind you're never going to get zero Ohms as your test meter and leads will add resistence but obviously you want as close to zero as possible... normally 0.03-0.5 Ohms is acceptable. High resistence...

They're not steering wheel location specific i'm afraid and I suspect, based on the "6000" prefix its a simple case of updated part numbers to suit both Renault/Nissan Alliance platforms/systems. This is what I can see: 6000073669: Used on Clio II (PR1247) 7700795688: Used on Clio I (PR1260...

As above, they are black magic and an Autogearbox specialist would be the best place to go as they're so complicated requiring some rather special equipement and experience to correctly diagnose/fix. It could be a hydraulic issue due to a blockage/low oil pressure or it could be a simple...

Clio II 1.2 16v have loads of issues and gremlins... most easy enough to fix though. A flashing MIL denotes a 'Level-2' igniton/fuelling issue that is likely to cause CAT damage. These are unlikely to be wiring related and more likely to be a component at fault... most likely the coilpack...

But have you actaully "Improved" the earths condition? The only way to know how effective an earth is would be to measure its resistence before and after. Also, it may not actually be the earth connection itself but an issue somewhere else such as the cable itself being trapped somewhere or a...

Hard to say without seeing it TBH but it does sound like the exhaust system has a leak somewhere and it really does need looking at to say for sure. Could be a gasket or just an old system section that's "Blown". Mick

You'll need a long, slimline sparkplug removal tool on this engine though to switch out the plugs... Halfords sell them. Buy the best ignition coilpack you can afford as the cheap £25 items from Autofactors are terrible and allow moisture in via the leads as the seals are plain crap out of the...

Not a bad price but the FULL aux. drive belt kit needs changing at the same time so be sure they do this and not just the belt - There's loads of capable specialist on here that can do the job for you properly... find one in your area matey and give em a nudge. I do this job using genuine parts...

Time for proper diagnostics mate... it needs to go on a CLIP i'm afraid. Could be something really simple like the decoder, could be a wiring issue or it could even be the UCH giving up but, IMHO, it really needs to go to someone that knows what they're doing i'm afraid to save time...

Kieran, I'm afraid it is unlikely to be anything else other than the fuel line 'clip' or its mating connection to the fuel rail that is either broken or worn. Unless you've altered the fuel pressure and the regulator settings of course. Got any pictures? Mick

Any lights on or just the missfire? Just because its had 'new' parts doesn't mean they're not damaged or faulty! Sounds to me like either an ignition coil fault or something not right with the fuel injection. Eitehr way it'll be far easier to take it somewhere to get it looked at and plugged in...

As above, faulty stat or CTS but it could also just be that the gauge needs callibrating as i've seen a few of these now that never reach the half way point. Key in ignition Press and hold the wiper stalk button Now turn the ignition on Watch the 'sweep' of the guage - does it manage to 'sweep'...

The gear change warning light on is normally due to poor gearbox earth OR the earths behind the NS head lamp. Mick

Re: clio won't start, key won't turn to start position, STOP, battery and oil light o Had this a few times now, as BMH above check all fuses. I bet the 120A battery terminal has gone pop or poor continuity. If not that check the solenoid control wire for poor connection/broken connector. Mick

Option 1: CLIP > Injection > Actuations > Cooling Fan Relay > Stage 1/2 > On/Off. Option 2: Disconnect the CTS multiplug in the engine bay, turn the ignition on > put the system in to a "Fault" mode and turn the fan on. If it's not working it could be a wiring fault, a fuse or one of the two...

Does the heater blow hot/warm air? Does the temp gauge creep up when the car is sat and allowed to idle for 10-20 minutes? Mick