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Good to hear... As I said in the mail this morning, most so called "UCH Faults" are actually wiring faults and not UCH related ;) Mick

LoL - that's actually quite good that... Mr T style ITB conversion there. Would be interesting to see what kind of power it makes though.

Not seen a set of turbines in a while... very nice! Needs centre caps back on or a nice wheel stud/bolt conversion combo (IMO)

yeah it is possible the dephaser has decided to play silly beggars if it wasn't changed, but again it's best/fair to let Craig take a look.

It's really impossible to say buddy - most fail under load but equally the timing can "creep" or just totally "slip" at idle to which is why when changing them you need to be sure there are no oil leaks and that everything is thoroughly degreased prior to installation of the new setup. If it has...

Just another thought... and i'm not offering it as a diagnosis, just throwing it out there; was the dephaser pulley checked/changed as these *can* give poor idle, missfire like and metallic rattling noises as symptons.

I know Craig @ APD personally and whilst I've heard some people say his work isn't all its cracked up to be I've seen first hand how he rolls... he know the F4R well enough to time them correctly so agree, chances are its fine and not his fault. If he's far away then a Renault dealer can/should...

Sorry, I don't get why the A/C is such an "issue" though as its just an ON/OFF switch, unless the system no longer functions at all? Of course they're likely to drive the car and there's nothing wrong with that providing they're leagally insured to do so. It's impossible to "over-Rev" the car...

AC is an simple enough "with" or "without" configuration option to carryout with dealer level equipment but there is no way a generic ODB reader will have that kind of coding ability i'm afraid. Do you know what ODB setup they have as there are some aftermarket kits about that can interface with...

You cant just swap an actuated TB unit for a cable controlled one and just expect it to work with the standard ECM i'm affraid. There is a small amount of wiring to be done, you'll need to add an idle air control circuit and finally, the ECM will need to be reconfigured to know about the new...

So you've cleaned the earths up but have you actually improved them; what was the resistence readings before and after? Did you check the earth/cable condition at the multiplug and around the light boards also? Mick

What were the codes? Do they all come back upon clearing them?

Horses for courses I guess Danny - I personally find when doing F4R timing belts that having the lamp unit out gives nice access for the Snap-On serp rachet to get in on the tensioner.

What complete fcuk-tards then - It really should go back to them with a brick attached to the keyfob especially if it wasn't on before hand. I can't understand how they've managed to screw the pooch so badly with a steering wheel off/on job!

Just to add to Dannys list : O/S/F Headlamp out... makes access loads easier ;)

Poor earth - improve and all will be fine!

If its say a faulty heater... maybe. Diagnostics Live Data FTW

It *should* be on the firewall/bulkhead as shown in the pic above... on a both MkI and MkII

Check the solenoid live to the starter... common for the wiring to break at the connector or just corrosion to inhibit the starter from working.

A '182 will most likely use an actuated/stepper controlled TB so no IACV. I'd guess at either H02-1, CTS, CPS or faulty ignition system (Check for moisture in plug wells)

As ab, front bumper off for both and there's a guide in the members section. The fee is 100% worth the spending IF you own a Clio!

The MkI's from Ph2 on did have an intertia switch... passenger turret area near the resevoir with either a black or red cover on them but this shouldn't give a "No Crank Start" as it merely breaks the fuel pump/ignition control signal(s). When you turn the ignition key to 'energise' can you hear...

Its the coolant overflow return which on the D7F DIET engine is only open when the stat is fully open as they don't have a partial drain/leak hole in the stat - he's proberbly not even run it up to that point yet. Its not exactly high pressure either so if he's say bent it over and cable tied it...

"Traction" control is ABS controlled so the SRS system *shouldn't* trigger this... "ESP" on the other hand takes in to account steering angle and so does use the "SAS" which is part of the Squibs sub-assembly on ESP equiped vehicles. I need to ask; WHY is the wiring to the sterring wheel...

These cars are common for wiring looms rubbing thru in key places, crank position sensor faults, etc but it could equally be an imobilliser issue or a basic engine problem to. You need to get someone that knows what they're doing to go back to basics with this first mate as guessing isn't cheap...

Throttle body on the 1.2 16v is integral to the airbox IIRC... rate pain in the ar_ _ Don't fit a K&N... It won't add 10bhp and if its the noise you want why not put a tastefull backbox on it and save your fuel consumption/pocket?

Nope, its not common... sounds like it could be a couple of things such as a leak in the inlet track and/or a faulty engine sensor such as H02-1 or CTS. Start with the cheap and easy service items first by looking for a seriously fouled up throttle body as this can give faulty idle conditions...

Original question by Big Duff... most likely to be the oil pressure switch at fault IF the oil level if bang on... fit a new one. No damage will have been done if its just a faulty switch as they're pretty common for it so fret not. It may however be prudent to have the engines actual oil...

Could indeed be a worn starter if the cranking speed is slow and sounding like its being held back... especially check the heat sheilding if its only doing it when warm. If it's cranking fine but not firing it'll be the Crank Position sensor at fault. You can remove it, clean it and refit it but...

Deffo NOT a vent, its the overflow return to the header... see pic below: It's a little blury I know but you can clearly see the pipe in the top, centre of the shot coming up from the thermostat house and going to the return on the coolant resevoir.