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Yeah, you could do it but for what gain? It would cost you a fair whack for the parts and you would see next to no gain in performance as the compression ratios are different between the two units, not to mention other things like cam profile Mick

This is why, like Fred said above, you shouldn't name and shame as one persons so called "Facts" can turn out to be nothing but billy bulls**t which can hurt a well built reputation over night. If a company has made a genuine mistake then they should be given the chance to correct it by the...

Code reading is not a proper diagnostic session - get it back on a decent bit of kit and have the live data looked at by someone that knows what they're on with and it'll pretty much point you in the right direction. I'd guess at either an H02 fault or coolant temp sensor but without seeing...

TB's and resonator boxes are a common service item for me as most places that do these "£99 Full Services" don't actually do anything other than oil and filters.... that reminds me, must get that info up in the traders section. Glad its sorted for you both - result! Mick

Current retail prices for an N2/N3 UCH for a Clio II is £200 then an hours diags for coding and config so around £270 from a dealer with warranty. Only have one key fob at present? Then now would also be a good time to invest £60-70 in a virgin keyfob to and have them code it up at the sametime...

You'll be better off starting your own thread IJ Problems like these are always hard to diagnose at the best of times though which are even harder without being able to see the actual car. You will need to check for faults such as: Oil Leaks Clutch fork travel (Distance in mm) Clutch rachet...

I thought that initially before the original ECM was scrapped... Its very hard to kill a modern ECM with all the built in circuitry protection unless you use fire/water/stupidity with a laptop. It really needs looking at by someone electrically minded IMO rather than someone that can plug in...

What was it in the end Steph/Mark?

The cooling fan is a two stage unit so when the AC is on the demand request is sent for "Stage 1" and the fan blows at a slow speed to keep air flowing thru the heat exchanger. The cooling fan is "Stage 2" and is a much higher speed. If you don't mind blowing some fuses you can always unplug the...

Whilst you're there checking plug leads check the plug wells to see if there's any sign of water or oil ingress as this can cause missfiring issues to. Mick

I'm assuming the car is running like a bag of spanners then? The usual suspects apply: Coil Pack Plug Leads Plugs First thing to check before spending any cash is that the plug wells aren't full of water or oil. If they are this will most likely be the cause of the missfire. Mick

They probebrly did use a crank pin Fred but if they didn't get it in the correct web it will do that to... seen it myself too many times. Even the manual warns you to check you have actual TDC on 1/4 Don't let them get you down though... I love putting things right Mick

Dirty TB maybe but that wouldn't account for a low idle like that as 500rpm is the tacho's minimum reading. My guess is a sensor sending duff info - Sounds like it needs a proper service and some attention. Mick

Currently, an N2/N3 UCH is retailing at around £200 then you'll need to have it configured and all your keys setup. This is normally a dealer only job but there are some specialist that can do this for you depending on where you are of course. Start the search yourself by checking all the...

Try heat, oil and a stud extractor then if you've got 8mm of stud to play with. Mick

Sounds like a coil pack issue - Was the fault "Active" or "Memory"? Just clear it and see if it comes back firstly

You will proberbly struggle tbh mate, especially if they're in the bonet. Try heat and then weld something on to the remaining stud. There's always a drill and reverse tap to but they take time

Head Bolts: Stage 1 - 20Nm, Stage 2 - +165 Degrees +/- 6 Degrees Cover Bolts: I do them all 12Nm though the official guide says some are 8Nm and others are 12Nm Pulleys: Inlet: 100Nm, Exhaust: Stage 1 30Nm, Stage 2 +86 Degrees (+/- 6 Degrees) 13mm Tensioner Nut: 28Nm Guide Bolts: 45Nm...

Needs diags matey... live data will confirm/deny but it sounds like either an H02 or CTS problem... Should idle around 750-780

Nope it was not an option in the Clio I though i've seen the K4M 1.6 16v put in to a Mk1 by Mike Sivyer a fair few years ago with the help of Nick Hill It can be fitted and getting the actual lump in would be easy on standard 16v mounts but the exhaust will be another matter Mick

A dirty/fouled up TB wouldn't give these problems but by all means, give the car a service. If you're worried about it being an ignition problem, rather than spunking out and spending well over £150 on parts that *may* be required why not get the car looked at properly with a diagnostic...

Time to get it to a garage/specialist for a proper looking at and I wouldn't continue to drive it about until its been diagnosed... it could be bottom end, it could be a timing slip issue, it could even be something else not quite as nasty. Pretty much impossible to say which without seeing or...

The earth wire is bolted to the inner bodywork and you will need to remove the inner liner to get at it i'm afraid. If you have a multi-meter handy put the lights on in turn and check for the pressence of +12v at the multiplug to as it could even be a bulb holder fault. Mick

Who did the belts... any paperwork/waranty? Deffo sounds like dephaser pulley and its an easy enough check: Camshaft endcaps out, top timing cover off, check for play in inlet cam. Mick

It depends on what the diagnostic session shows... could be a pedal track at fault or even a wiring issue between the pedal potentiometer and the TB itself. Step 1 - Proper diagnostics required and go from there buddy. Mick

What year is the vehicle? If it's a phase 1 it'll be a cable actuated throttle body and the TPS will be bolted to the side. Technically you are not supposed to remove them from the TB assembly as they're factory set but you can get away with it on these models without any real effect to the...

@Iceberg I can't comment on that Iceberg as I'm not a performance tuner and my experience with such things is limited... I just fix em right and keep em running right I'm afraid. I'm guessing that the vernier assembly will bolt to the cam in the normal way (With a modified inlet camshaft oil...

That's how its always been done in touring cars J. Sling the engine right back, alter the suspension geometry and mounting points... all for better balance and weight distribution. I've got loads of pictures of the WTCE Lagunas as I had to alter my RDR 19 setup to allow an engine to be...

TBH its not rocket science and I share your frustrations but the process is the process which is there for a reason and when, which is normally the case around here at least, people think they can cut corners and circumvent the process without any come backs it always does come back and clears...

As above, the light you are seeing is the electrical fault warning light so there will be a fault with either a component or the wiring somewhere. Putting it on a "Clip" or similar equipment will not necessarily detect/diagnose this issue and it needs looking at by someone with an electrical...