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Nice to see something different built without compromise but still sad that a WTCE chassis had to die to create it. I've not read the original story but is there any mention of which chassis and build was used as WTCE produced a few variants? Looks like the last of the run going on the Sodemo...

School boy error...

Yes this is correct and I'm guessing you are doing it without the aid of any of the required locking tools? The F4R is a keyless sprocket setup so no woodrough keys or timing marks are provided by Renault as the timing is set and locked by means of three very specific pieces of equipment...

You can buy the adjuster kits from Renault for around £25-30 but I promise you now they will want to know what rear brake setup you have, Bosch or Lucas (Girling or TRW) and the only way you'll know is to look at them i'm afraid. Mick

Yes and no... its not hard but you'll need to remove the upper heat shielding and to do that you're gonna have to remove a lot of the inlet plenum, faff about with some 10mm bolts that will most likely be corroded then you're going to need an HO2 socket to remove it as you're not gonna get a...

The Laguna II F4P/R inlet plenum and TB setup won't fit the K4M as the center to center dimensions are different - F4R conversion for the win though. I'd love a Dacia Logan Rally rep... Even the Cup cars look pretty mint

Exhaust manifold... right in the top.

Could also be a broken wire in the flexible section of the boot loom.

How exactly have you wired the new fog lights? Don't spare on the details please.

Proberbly the level indicator wires catching the inner arch if they're left hanging. Front wheels off and have a look to see if you can find the pink wire swinging about. Tape up the end and the flickering warning light should stop. Mick

Sounds like a the rachet mech is worn then... a common failure on older vehicles. The Fix? A new pedal assembly from the dealer i'm afraid. There are rachet mech kits floating around on eBay but they're not worth it IMO and you have to faff about removing your current assembly, dismantling it...

Fek me Laine, you don't mess about do you... That's spent!

Head off, replace 2/4 bent valves, refit... Nice weekend DIY job that.

You need to start simple so: Check the battery has voltage. Check all connections, both +12v and earths are secure and intact. Check all fuses (Especially the 120A unit in the + battery terminal). If the above is ALL present and correct you will need to widen your search... normally the above...

Yeah I gave it a quick go thru the parts washer for you. I also ditched the 1" thick layer of silicone the previous mechanic used to stop the end caps and dephaser solenoid spewing oil everywhere before re-sealing the cam covers for you. I think you'll be very happy with it cos it flys once more ;)

There's only one pin required for the F4/F7 crank... Some people use an 8mm drill bit but they can snap as they're seriously weak at the base of the fluted section. The kit will contain two pins as, and i'm guessing here, the horse-shoe also fits the K4/K7 engines so i'm guessing the second pin...

There are cheap kits available on eBay containing a lock pin and camshaft locking horse-shoe which will do you fine for your needs but there's only a few places you're going to get the pulley locking tool from and that's AST/Renault.

Snap-On code readers of old, aka "Bricks", always used there own code system that had no cross reference to actual generic "P" codes... in short, they're useless! I also suspect the codes above are also about as much use as a chocolate fire guard. You really need the car looking at by someone...

CTS = Coolant Temp. Sensor

Here you go - Judes head from earlier: Time-sert kit: Standard thread after a clean: Repaired thread with time-sert:

As above, the head is not scrap yet. I'm just repairing Judes that did exactly this now... I've got to post some photos for him later as his timing belt was fitted incorrectly by the last muppet that worked on it so I'll stick some up of the repair I've done to. In short DO NOT use a...

Re: ** So my clutch has just "gone" - HELP ** +1 - Totally agree on both points here. Only fit the Valeo kit (LUK are alright but i've had a couple of faulty ones in the past so avoid them now to save doing the job twice) and the RenTec price of £375 fully supplied and fitted is for...

Re: ** So my clutch has just "gone" - HELP ** Doubtful - If there was a cable problem it would be apparent with the pedal "feel" and "Position" at rest. Have you noticed the car losing oil?

As far as I'm aware you simply need to send the ECM to somewhere like ECU-Testing to have the Imobiliser code removed... then wire it up and watch it go. Mick

So its had x3 sets of plugs in 57k.... that's a touch much IMO as a proper set of Champion plugs should last 72k Assuming the correct plugs have been used and that there's nothing obviously wrong with the leads I'd say compression test the lump and come back with the readings. Mick

I'll gladly offer my services but i'd need your full address details to be able to price up the callout charge... to be honest, due to the distance, I'd proberbly do a job like this on a fixed fee rather than charge by the hour. If you're interested drop me an email via my website contact form...

Re: ** So my clutch has just "gone" - HELP ** If you're having a new clutch you'd be silly not to have a new cable fitted at the same time... they're only £18 +VAT from Renault so not the end of the world. Get the crank shaft oil seal inspected/replaced also. Mick

If it was my car I wouldn't be planning any kind of journey in it with a problem like this. Get it looked at properly; one of my customers had a Megane 16v which wasn't running quite right and several garages had taken a look at it all with differing diagnosis's from H02 sensors, blocked CAT's...

My Scenic seemed loud when I first got it to. After I changed the belt it was a lot quieter and it seemed to have a bit more mid-range to. I've currently got Judes Clio in for some repairs to the cylinder head after the previous owner killed the thread on plug No.3 which needs fixing as well...

Re: FRED, DANNY etc *HELP* Pass side shaft Boot replaced and still leaking gearbox o It is sometimes possible to incorrectly seal the gearbox when changing this shaft. I find the trick is to do up x3 13mm bolts finger tight then spin the gaiter by hand a few times before finally putting...