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It will be impossible to say i'm afraid without seeing the car - I doubt its the ECM though and am certain it'll be a wiring fault/bad earth

I've not seen the car so can't give you a green light to drive it normally i'm afraid. Personally I'd advise you get it sorted ASAP but if you have to drive it, do so with care rather than hoon it about everywhere. The ABS kicking in all the time is never a good thing; the system isn't designed...

Sounds like a potential wiring/earth problem to me. I'm not trashing the AA's diagnosis as they've seen the car and I haven't but the fan being on and no ECM response suggests an infrastructure fault. Mick

It could still be a faulty brake pedal switch so don't rule it out just yet but it also sounds to me like a possible fault with a wheel sensor or reluctor ring... most likely a rear one if your speedo is reading fine still. You can visually inspect the setup for signs of cracking or damage but...

PM recieved and replied to Mick

You must've been the person Don left a voice mail for me about... silly Android phones eat batteries so didn't get it until I got home other wise i'd have stopped by on my way home. I've seen this happen to a few F4R heads when people have gone silly with the plug socket. You might get away...

I always check them for signs of play which is why I always keep one in stock but I say if you can afford it and you plan on keeping the vehicle, get it done. Worst case is it goes shortly afterwards - depending upon who is doing the job for you, would normally incur a nominal labour charge to...

Nagh its not a faulty clockset but there will have been an issue with the fuel level sender so the clockset will need reseting. Press and hold the button on the wiper stalk then turn the key until all the lights come on. The clockset will go crazy and start flicking the needles up and down...

Get it plugged in matey... no guess work required then. Mick

The flashing MIL means you have a level 2 fault... not a perm fault but one that can damage the life of the CAT. Most probably due to a missfire so the usual culprits to suspect; HO2, CTS, ATS, Plugs, Coil

Had it on diagnostics? Not looking for codes but looking at the live data... might also be worth scoping the injectors to. Mick

Correct, most likely that the clearances need setting... obviously you need to do this when the engine is cold. I doubt it would seriously effect the power output of the engine unless they're completely wrong but the knocking will make you feel like something isn't right. Mick

Sequence: 8 - 4 - 1 - 5 - 9 7 - 3 - 2 - 6 - 10 All down 20Nm 90 degrees (+/- 6 degrees) Wait 3 - 5 mins Slacken bolts 1 & 2 then retighten 20Nm then a further 200 degrees (+/- 6) Slacken 3, 4, 5 and 6 then retighten 20Nm then a further 200 degrees (+/- 6) Slacken 7, 8, 9 and 10 then...

You will need to check the links from the wishbones to the level control motors. IIRC they're plastic and prone to snapping. Mick

Looking at how far you have the exhaust cam seal pressed in I bet you've fitted the inlet seal incorrectly to.... pics less dephaser pulley please.

1.2 16v Clio II... with a wiring fault you say? Well, that rarely happens :o Bloody things are plagued with rubbish like this; tape up and repair any breakages and if problems persist replace the "short" loom for a new one from Renault. IIRC it's around £130 Mick

headlight ride height adjuster either busted or siezed... have a look matey

You don't really as they need to be under bolt tension to test for 'play' in the inner/outer assembly... any free play = bin IMO and that's what the Renault tech doc says to.

You buy the Maccies and i'll bring the beer - then we go for Lapdances later eh Fred?

Can sometimes be hidden under oil and other crud - its there though I promise. Mick

That's fine, if you have the tools, time and know-how but seeing as you've done this job would you like to repeat it all the time? I've got about 30 at the minute in the bin that weren't rattling but did show signs of 'play'... lets say £20 a pop?

As you're looking at the engine block from the front on look at the front right where the gearbox bolts to it; there will be an engraving stating F4x-XXX and the engine number CXXXXXX Mick

I might put my entire scrap pile on eBay then to raise some cash for lapdances then and offer no form of warranty on them :lol:

LoL - Renault I'm afraid as it is a dealer only part! The part will also need fitting by a competent person who knows what they're doing with the timing on your vehicle as it's not exactly a cheap and easy part to replace.... deffo not a DIY swap! The cheapest I can supply one for is £156 but...

New filler neck required then - scrap yard item from any Clio II Ph1 will do just fine or you can go to Renault and spend a small fortune for a brand new one. Mick

The MOT stations aren't stupid and know that the SRS system light is supposed to come on and then go off again - there will be so many cars failed on this. It will be different if the car itself has been de-SRS'd but the rules are very simple and very clear; IF the car has SRS units deployed...

Ah right, I didn't read it fully

Bad female friends with cracking norks I hope? You have PM Mick

Everything but the dephaser IF its a VVC variant.