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£300 off for some cap mayo after its been stood for a while - Stand and deliver you pikey! As long as it doesn't return in massive force and the coolant isn't vanishing all should be well. Poor/corroded earths deffo the most likely causes of the electrical issues though. Dash rear fog light...

I've done a few for some local CS members but as I've not paid my subs yet i'm not allowed to advertise my company (yet) however, I don't get why people moan about "lack of access" on the F4R or even the K4/K7M's cos there's plenty IMO (If they want a fun job they should try a timing belt...

+1 Laine - IF its a compression fault then it could be valve or ring related... as for fixes and prices worry about that if the results show a wild cylinder reading.

You're sure its not got snagged/caught anywhere as its rare that these things happen? Has it left enough 'free' cable to get a solder connection in? Worrying its 'snapped' though but it has been cold recently... could have helped it along as its only thin guage wire IIRC.

TBH you've been unlucky if you lost all the gearbox oil - probebrly too much 'playing' with the hub when it was free but never mind. What exactly wouldn't fit with the camber bolts; do you mean they won't go thru the holes on the damper legs or they won't go thru the holes in the hubs? The...

They're not exactly hard to get off - Take one off, lean on it and I bet it goes to the floor without so much as a fight let alone rebound. Replace as a pair though ;)

just in case its not already been said... rear dampers! :rasp:

Maybe I am you Dad :lol: 12v @ 10A isn't gonna arc that far - Its more likely that the spades will move and touch one another causing a short but if they're soldered on they're not gonna go anywhere unless you can't solder for shiz.

We're talking about a Clio II Phase 2 RS'Cup yeah? I've got a clockset from one here on my desk right now in for repair and the light below the seatbelt warning lamp (top left above the tacho) is the dipped head-lamp. [confuzzled] Pics required please Mick

Just be carefull with spade connectors... They're okay in some situations but to an auto-electrician like me they're the devils along with "Choc-blocs" and "Scotch Locks"! They're fine in *most* applications but remember this is your fuel pump so fairly critical as far as systems go. Firstly...

Sorry, one of the wires was "out" of the EGR Multi-plug or the Multi-plug was just out of the EGR Valve? Either way that's not good - have you been able to confirm/deny the EGR's operation? The EGR Valve and Glow Plug Heater circuits are linked on these vehciles which is most likely why you're...

Was it just a "J" or was it "JCO_" or "JCC_"? A "J" being displayed on the clocksets LCD screen when put in to self diagnostic mode merely denotes there has, at some point, been an "issue" with the fuel tank sender circuit. This fault could simply be low voltage for a while or even the...

That's the one - :approve: - you will need the aid of a friend to do this job (unless you've got stupidly long arms/legs) Mick

Sunroof? Check the earths in the footwells aren't soaking/corroded.

That's a good thing then - Generally, problems with ESP aren't cheap or DIY items to fix!

You can buy them from an automotive electrical specialist - For me they're called "Midland Magneto" but eBay *may* be another source. Dave Walker at Emerald also sells the pins you'll need for the fuel pump multiplug but you will also need a special tool to 'de-pin' the plug (Unless you fancy...

Sure you've not got a leak?

Sounds like it could be the EGR Position sensor struggling or even a siezing/sticking valve itself... maybe time to remove it and give it a good blast out with something like a tin of brake cleaner. Don't breathe in the black s**t though cos it won't put hair on yer chest!!! Mick

Does it do this all the time or just on cold days?

You say they've snapped in the "column cover"... do you mean the wiring has snapped or the multiplug cos I'm not sure?

IF that's the case then the wrong clutch has been fitted - That is all. It is possible to get a little "Adjustment" from the clutch rachet but not enough to make a problem like this dissapear - personally, I think a wrong clutch has been fitted. Out of curiosity, have you measured the clutch...

Yep, most likely a poor connection between the plug pins and the terminals - Can't you "modify" them with a small screwdriver to make them meet again? New pins are available but they're not cheap for what they are (and you can only buy them in packs of 32)

What did the live data show for the sensor voltage? Wiring problem is the most likely cause... without seeing the car i'd say corrosion in the multiplug to Ho2-2 but could equally be in the wiring between the sensor and the ECM. Mick

How'd you manage that?

Seb *IF* it needs adaption it can only be done on decent diagnostic kit. The problem may lay with either the wiring or one of the components; Pedal Potentiometer or the TB so be sure to get it checked out properly before replacing parts that are potentially fairly pricey! Mick

You could simply unplug and remove the accel pedal assembly from the car and then dry it out to see if that cures the issue but I'm not a gambling man so wouldn't advise just changing out the pedal just yet. I always like to proove a part is buggered before replacing it but that's just how I run...

Seb, its going to be a drive-by-wire TPS being the Clio II Ph2 so having a P0120 as an ACTIVE code is the most likely cause of your problem however a look at the track outputs via the vehicles live data screen will tell you if it is this and if somehow the cold mornings are effecting the sensor...

And once its warmed up, does it still do this? Diagnostics will tell you everything!

The Ho2 sensors are labelled "Ho2-1" (Pre CAT) and "Ho2-2" (Post CAT) and both are "Bank 1"... I *believe* the "Bank X" description allows for generic EODB codes to distiguish between engines with more than one cylinder head.

P0420 relates to Ho2-2 so that's the Upstream/Post Cat Lamda sensor - First things first; check the wiring and the multiplug for corrosion or signs of damage especially if its recently been distrubed.