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yes but only if it is NOT keyed, as the crank will spin independently of the camshaft due to slight slackness in the belt putting the timing out slightly. unless your crank pulley was seized on like mine, then it may not have moved.

If the timing pins were in then you shouldn't need to worry too much about the timing I wouldn't have thought, as long as its in the correct crank hole, did you mark up the Injection pump?? and its not uncommon to need to rotate the engine maybe 6-8 times to get the fuel pump marks back in line...

Crank pin definatly in the timing hole not the drilled balance hole in the crankshaft counter weight/web, as they are next to each other iirc

I wouldn't panic mate, especially because its night and you have the headlights from the car behind you showing up every bit a steam/condensation that leaves your exhaust, have a look in the day and guarantee you wont see anything :). Plus due to the colder temps you will get a lot of...

Just ring up either place I mentioned and quote your registration, they'll do the rest :)

Sounds like you mean a mesh/gauze to filter the large pieces of debris form getting sucked in? correct?

If they are xenon's then get a quote from Renault, and also Euro car parts ( As they do good makes like osram) . Don't be tempted to buy the cheap Chinese ones from ebay :nono:, they have been known to cause fires :dead:

Anywhere between 3-5k for a nice clean one, if this has no corrosion and is clean with fsh then id try offering £4500 as a cheeky offer. Just drive it to make sure the Differential/ gearbox is quiet :)

Wow, talk about no fear.... Looked like fun though. Spare engine and box in the car? lol

What code reader was used? Some scanners are crap and don't show intermittent fault codes when a snap-on one would. Its worth checking the crank sensor wiring as I mentioned before as its a common fault and would make sense with the symptoms you have.

Crank sensor/ wiring possibly, try wiggling the wires to the sensor while its running, see if it plays up

Be careful not to damage the two o-ring seals when refitting the fuel line to the rail

Either cv joint locking up (due to joint breaking up) or the diff locking up, could be either of these especially if its only with the steering turned on or near full lock.

Best bang per buck tbh in relation to handling and performance, they look nice and the FF versions have all the mod cons that are needed.

The light on the dash that looks like a square with zig-zag in it, I think it looks like a hear rate monitor lol. That's the engine immobiliser light/electrical fault light according to my handbook

Looking very nice mate, good job, I cleaned my car today too. Check out that double rainbow (all the way across the sky) whooaaaa

As long as you have checked the basics first i.e.... Air, Fuel, Spark, The basic things you need for an engine to even start. If you have all of these start looking into sensors and connections, such as crank sensor wiring and resistances for example.

The vacuum in that pic should go to the Acoustic valve iirc, if one isn't fitted the that vacuum should be blanked off as its sucking in air after the throttle body!

I have just read through a lot of this but cant decide if you sanded down all of the earth hoops and also sanded where they bolt to so that both join faces are shiney clean metal? What happens when you try to turn the key? (click, multiple clicking, whirring, nothing etc)

There are no 'Marks'. There are only special timing alignment tools, a 'horseshoe' camshaft aligning bar and a TDC locking pin that slots into the block and into a groove in the crankshaft web. If with the TDC pin locked in the crank (not in the balance hole which is a common mistake as its so...

LOL nope, its over £4000 for the kit for 182, id rather mock up a DIY turbo kit if I were serious. Too much money involved tbh. I've left it too late in life to do this kind of stuff ( impending mortgage, wedding) lol

Bad man ting ;)

Does the throttle pedal stop responding when the fault occurs? I believe these are also fly by wire throttle control.

Check in the wheel arch to make sure the liner isn't rubbing on the tyre, or anything else for that matter, regarding the knocking, if you stab the throttle when driving does it knock every time?

Yeah totally, I had an old clio 1.4rt back in 2008 and that had clutch judder for over a year, never did anything with it, stayed the same throughout ownership lol. Yeah the clio 65 and 80 don't but wasn't sure about the 100 :)

Clutch judder is usually much worse from cold, and once the car has been driven a few miles and warmed up the symptom's appear to vanish as if there is nothing wrong, unless the judder is more severe at which point you can still feel it from pull off when warm, more than likely due to a warped...

If oil was contaminating the friction material the clutch would most defiantly be slipping and be unlikely to cause judder. Clutch judder is normally felt when pulling off in first gear or low speed driving. Where are you feeling the judder through? the clutch pedal?, whole car in general...

That's a very good price, cant wait to see the finished car :)

Looking good, will be keeping an eye on this, what sort of price are you looking at for the re-spray if you don't mine me asking? :)

1st: Inferno Orange (non biased opinion ;) ) 2nd: LY 3rd: Flame red 4th: Racing blue ' The rest of the colours aren't for me, there are a lot of common colours that are ok bus as I said 'common' . I don't see many infernos around which encouraged me to get one, had mine 2 months and 'liked' the...