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Re: Mk1 Hybrid Project Just thought about it, and decided your right and I'm wrong! If the dizzys are the same part number then the keyways on willy and valver cams must be in the same place. Good luck with it mate, let us know what you find :)

Re: Mk1 Hybrid Project think about it mate. The cams could be 180 deg different. It's the keyways on the cams that locates the dizzy. If the either of the keyways were moved 180 dgrees in relation to the cam lobes then the ignition timing would be 180degrees out. I find it unlikely but it's a...

Re: Mk1 Hybrid Project F7R and F7P both run the same dizzy 77 00 739 893

Why the volt and water gauge? You have water temp on the dash? Love the look of the car. Saw it at renault World series. Very nice.

Re: Mk1 Hybrid Project tappets won't cause you any many problems, but it needs a good hour before they fill properly. I fitted a valver engine that had been standing for quite a while and it took about 1 hours running before the tappets filled. Just looked through my part numbers PDF, F7P and...

Re: Mk1 Hybrid Project which dizzy cap and rotor are you using, do you know if they are any good? Also did you use the haynes manual method of filling the tappets with oil before fitting the head? Although that causes noisy valve train and poor valve lift it won't cause it not to fire...

awesome pics well done

What an epic misread on my part.

like the volvo! What did the straight six come from?

Wonder how the GDi with AC will price up against the Angelworks without AC don't spose we get any hints?

theres your answer there. Won't work.

with your standard management it's a pretty safe setup as long as the fuel rig is correct. 16v tanks have a swirl pot as standard don't they (or at least they are safe for track work). As long as you know what your oil is doing, i'd say you'll be ok.

Get a wideband and monitor AFR. The engine is a standard 172 lump so if your using the correct fuel pump and reg, fuel pressure will be fine. actually, what management is it on? Standard mgmt iirc? in which case there is not a great deal you can do about AFR anyway, so i'd stick with what you have.

Sorry mate, 7 lifters then. I knew you'd said about something in the top.:o

you can all stop dreaming cos it's sold ;) http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/811269.htm

^^He shouldn't need to, the engine was easily good for the power and more with those components in. Just needs a new 'rod^^ crank regrind, custom journal shells, new rollers in the top, possible oil pump replacement (the list could go on, but you don't know that yet). imho mate, save yourself...

just do it FFS You know your stuff. You could easily do a proper job and end up with a reliable track car that'd be really good fun to drive.

So much better than the current one IMO. A great car.

****Sticky This*****

the crank may also require re-hardening as the hardening processes used don't penetrate, they are just on the surface. I'd just go for a new crank, as difficult as it may be to source. That or give it to a really good engineering company WITH your rods and shells and have them check THE LOT.

clio cup has a completely Redesigned dogbone mount (engine torque stabiliser) Looks a lot better than standard and is better mounted on the gearbox.

works on XP with IE 7 :rasp:

valvers are cheap. But F7P engines are really cheap. ring and get a quote, Im sure it'lll be ok

nice job, would like more pics/

find out the stroke of both. See if the F4R will give you more stroke. If it does then this certinally sounds like a good thing to try. No idea if it'll fit or not.

by gearbox seals, do they mean inner CV boots? I suspect they would.... And get a second opinion on a the cracked shaft. You'd be the first person to have had that i'd think

Munch. I'll not be eating my hat then. well done mate. Would it not be easier just to whip the engine out for all this?

I see no mini

WOW! love the pics guys, congratulations. How do you rate the coilover setup?

don't see any reason why things should go wrong or your car burn to the ground. Do it properly. Consider the use of fuses, and wire into the door switches.