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Put the dash in test mode by holding the button on the wiper stalk in and turning the key to ignition, then press the button again to scroll around to the digital fuel readout. That's what I do on track days and it's close enough.

That Sonax Cut Max you mentioned is meant to be good.

Best all-rounder on DA is yellow Rupes foam (or the new yellow wool if harder paint) and Sonax Perfect Finish.

@Tubbs Vice is the resident diesel specialist.

It would be something to try. I've never heard of anyone trying it, so you could be the first 😅

If you were to PWM the solenoid, you'd need a cam senor for the ecu to be able to work out where the cam is, wouldn't you? The true VVT on the 197/200's had cam sensors i think.

You're now showing as a member again Tony

Take it up with Paypal, you'll more than likely win.

Weird, you were showing up with the blue member banner on my phone this morning, but now on PC you're not :unsure: There should be a renew button to click when you go to Club Memberships menu.

You're still showing as a member, so must have already renewed.

Click on your profile pic at the top, next to the CS logo and go to Club Memberships.

Yeah £300 ish would be about right.

I hope they don't mean the caps for the other end of the cams 😅

Been a very long time since i've taken any track pictures.

Sounds cheap to me. Just make sure you're getting everything including the seals.

Ahh right, well it looks like they need doing now 😏

Can't own an M car without a BTG plate 😅

Yes. Did they change the seals when it was done? It's part of the job as the pulleys run against the seals.

Ahh I read it wrong, some reason thought you meant the original cars price from new 😅

You've spent £10-12k on it? 👀 Looks amazing.

Thieves know most Clios don't have cats in them 😂

Yes, this as well. Worth logging temps as just seeing the dial reach middle and saying 'it's up to temp' isn't accurate enough. It'll reach middle at like 50-60c, where as it needs 75+ for full rev limit. Cold limiter is 6,700rpm.

Remove the sensor and check for any damage. 2 x 10mm's on the top of the box where it joins the engine. That code is for an intermittent fault.

Tie rods are all the same length on Ph2 172 and 182's. Not sure on the length but they 'look' about right.

Only thing you can do is send them back really.

No reason why they shouldn't fit. The centre bore for the wheels is 60.1mm Is there any corrosion inside your wheel bore?

Well overdue a rebuild then.

Bigg Red or Brake Parts International on eBay.

Sticky piston and/or slider pins.