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Seen a pair of R888r's for £180 the pair here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-195-50-15-toyo-r888r-gg-compound-rally-tyres-race-tyres-trackday-tyres-race-/282788093026?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 Decent as they're £100 a tyre at most places.

Bargain!

But it looks nice 😌

Ahh right, i assumed the bar going to the struts would be used for harnesses after i'd posted. Be nice to see some gussets on the cross/diagonal bars :wink:

No harness bars for the cage?

Yeah, as i said in your message it can get lively on the rear but it's just being dragged around anyway so just keep your foot in :tongueclosed:

That's what the Autoglym kit is.

Autoglym Headlight Restoration kit from Halfrauds.

This! No engine mods, no diff, average coilovers, no rear arb. Sticking with my £3-3.5k

You can use one of those paint de-nib things, it's like a sharp metal block which shaves the paint off. Use with caution.

2118’s are about 9.5kg, would guess the 2020’s to be around 7kg?

ET35

You can get Bilstein B14 for less than the BC's. You won't have as much adjustability but they're much better than Vmaxx.

Reminds me of the time i had to remove an engine, box and subframe from one that was parked nose first against a fence on axle stands with the wheels and suspension removed 😂

A standard Clio vs a standard Megane are pretty much the same at around 170 bhp per ton. Stick with the Clio as parts and consumables will be cheaper.

Quite common for the tensioners to seize 😞

Yeah they work.

What's the idea behind the spacers? Reduced heat?

Already have that one which came free with my helmet :up:

No haha, a place up near Preston called Tilling Powdercoating. The Megane wheels i had done were yeah, powdercoated red. Decent enough job for £120.

Had a set of 18" Megane ones done for £30 a wheel :tongueclosed:

Bit overkill to convert the brakes really. Can't really go quick enough in a 1.2 😂 I'd save the money and buy a 182 when you can insure one.

Would need the hubs, the correct bolt spacing on the shocks to go with the hubs. Probably a few other things too.

Yeah very good the PF97's.

That's what I said in less words that weren't copied and pasted from some website.

The grease will reduce the friction thus allowing the bolt to be tightened more, which applies more clamping force and stretching the bolt. That's why ARP supply special grease with their studs and bolts so that the torque can be replicated the same on each fastener.

You assumed I didn't torque them, but I did. After they had come loose the copper grease was cleaned off and then they were re torqued. They have since never come loose. Same reason I don't copper grease wheel bolts.

Wrong

Bit of penetrant spray should be fine, they can be tight though. Heat as mentioned should work. Don't copper grease them when putting them back in. Had them come loose doing that.

Used the long jack handle for Niall's and other cars.