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The fuel gauge one is ace :)

What diameter is that metal pipe?

I want that induction kit!

There's three adjustment points for a start on the rs192. So you have to muck about with them all to try and get it right.

Front hub nuts are 285nm I think

Looks nice and clean :)

Correct me if I'm wrong but it's a floating set up and all the pulleys should spin freely when their not tightened up :p When the cams are locked with the timing tool and the crank is locked with the tdc pin, you should be able to rotate all the pulleys freely with the belt on when their not...

That would be nice? :D

Haha. TBH I havent even looked at the rack yet. Presumed they were metal clips. Ok I'm gonna shutup now and just do it. haha. Thanks again for all the info.

Did you actually discover what went wrong?. Nice progress btw.

Haha. I'm the same, always realise after its too late to flash!. I doubt I'll see you that often, I was starting late that day. I usually leave about 8am.

Lol just checking Fred. You know what these workshop manuals are like. Mega over cautious!. Appreciate all the help. Just gotta order the bits and give it a stab. I take it the boot clips are non re-usable?.

If only it were that easy for me. Oh well I'm sure it'll be fine.

As above. The Haynes manual states you have to hold the toothed part that the inner track rod screws on to with something to reduce strain on the rest of the rack whilst undoing/tightening. Since access is dia I can't really see a way of doing that.

Is it vital to hold the other part of the rack still whilst undoing the track rods to reduce strain on the pinion? If do what do you use?

I don't know any friendly mot places :(

Unless he knows a friendly mot place ;)

I don't like warning lights! I used an old busted lambda just to screw in to block the hole. Kept the original one connected and tucked up the side of the heat shield. Light came on for a bit then went and never came back. But before I done that i had the lambdas in as they should be the light...

It's nice. ReAlly loud on full chat. But not too bad whilst driving gently.

I have a cheap laser one. Does the job but they only tend to do 150ftlb. When doing hub nuts you need one that goes higher.

Lol no point in doing the lambda unless there's any faults or symptoms. It's not exactly hard to get to.

Ok thanks Fred. From searching previous threads It looks like it is 32mm but if you or anyone else could confirm this it would be great help.

I never said get the scorpion one. It's a cheap option but I think it's too long personally. Id go for the ktec one.

I think you'll enjoy the sound ;)

You would have thought it would of ran terribly if it was over fuelling to that extent.

Unlucky. Is it really possible to get fuel in your oil?. I've never heard of this before.

What the hell! What happened to the bottom end?.

I've got my MOT next week and I've got a feeling the inner track rods are shot. Would a 32mm crows foot spanner do the job of removing the inner track rods?. I know Renault have a special tool but I can't warrant buying it for a one off job. I've heard Freds design of welding a 32mm spanner...

Oh and for the record, if you don't want the engine management light coming on (which it will do with a decat) You need to leave the second lambda connected but not screwed into the decat. Mines just shoved up the side of the heatshield. I used an old lambda sensor to screw into the decat...

Its not worth modifying it mate. Scorpion do a decat on ebay for £60. But I also have a Yozza system and the scorpion decat seemed longer than the cat and ended up pushing my tail pipes out further which I didn't really like. Can't comment on the Ktec decat. Thats the one I'd probably go for...