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And its gone 20 mile up the road lol, apologies for the scratch marks, it was an arse tonget out on my own. If you decide to run an aftermarket rear view mirror let me know and you can have the brackets from my longacre one that was on there mate

Looks identical to my old cage @R.TAB1S serial 28897 by any chance?

No problems, they're nice cages, just a shame they've had to be changed for competition as its a real pain to cut the mounts back out lol There are some instructions on SD website, they are a little vague and only generic but have a look...

Unfortunately welding will be required I'm afraid, the rear arch stays are bolt through but as mentioned above the feet are welded to the footwells. The other brackets in the top left of the pic aren't required (these are for extra supports that you're cage doesn't have)

I think that it's 99% personal opinion, if you like them and they're the wheels you want then go for them, they can always be painted at a later date to suit your taste. We all have different likes/dislikes but that doesn't mean any one person is right or wrong, go with what's right for you :)...

Are you sure it's the uch at fault? Its more common for the switches to fail first from experience. If it is indeed the uch then it can be removed without having to take anything else off, glove box and dash stay in place

If it is the adjuster inside the headlight you'll be able to move the insides around with ease.

I'd say the issues are unrelated to be honest, I assume there's no warning lights when the engine misfires/goes lumpy? Probably the most common issues are plugs/ht leads/coilpack related but I would expect these to normally trigger the eml warning. Could well be a Lambda sensor on its way...

You'll probably find it easier to wire up the kill switch, and get that working properly first, and then move onto a push button starter rather than confusing things by trying to wire it all up together

No problems, let's see if I can help :) I'm going to start off with some assumptions here so please correct me if I'm wrong. The airbag warning light was either on or came on and off intermittently? On investigation you've found the issues with seat wiring being a mess and previous...

I had this with a mates 182 last year, ended up being a heavily corroded earth strap from gearbox to chassis. If you've got some jump leads you can use one as a temp earth from a clean metal source (nothing corroded/ruaty/painted etc etc) to the negative pole on the battery, if it is an earth...

If i've read your posts correctly your seats have side airbags, however your wiring loom doesn't have the wiring for them back to the ecu? is this correct?

I've only ever changed them as a set to be honest, ecu uch and fob part of the key, don't need the blade or locks as these can all be re used off of the original key. what model of the mk2 is it for?

Does the engine attempt to turn over at all when the electrics 'play up'?

I've always taken them out as a pair, I doubt there's room to be honest to leave the box in in all honesty. Yeah the end plugs are the ones I was referring too, I assume these where the seals you mentioned previously?

I think it's a bit of both to be honest, I was suffering with massive wheel spin at times, I'd guess I'm running somewhere around 2.5-3 degrees of camber but still haven't had it set properly so can't say for sure, it's all in the pipeline but as I'm still in the process of upgrading parts I've...

Water pumpkins aux driven but is partially covered by the cambelt from memory, whilst I'm sure it could be changed on its own is itnreallybwprth the hassle when as others have said it's circa £40 for a new one? The cam seals will also need to be changed as they will get damaged when being...

Decided to have a run out at Llandow yesterday, before the big strip down in preparation for a new cage next week. Have been there a few times now and had so far escaped there without damaging tyres too much, well that was until yesterday anyway. Think it's time for some new front tyres now lol...

Tiger seal, just don't get it in the wrong place.

Gripper diff not quaiffe, it's been a long week already

The Golds seem great to be honest, very impressed so far. I'm yet to fully push them in dry conditions but in the wet there's a lot less body roll when cornering. Haven't had them weighted\geo'd yet as i've got my name down on a group buy with @ACS_Motorsport for a roll centre correction kit...

Just for a change Combe was yet again wet, not quite as wet as before but certainly far from dry, as lunch came the skies cleared and we hoped for the best and stuck on some dry tyres only for it to rain as we sat in line to go back out after lunch, made it a little entertaining on direzzas in...

Not sure if there's a conversion guide on here buts its pretty straightforward, I did mine last year and I personally think it is a good improvement over the standard setup, especially as the assistance is adjustable so can be almost completely turned off on track. Parts wise you're looking at...

I've got a set on mine, not had it set up properly but the bushes themselves seem good. According to the instructions/paperwork they allow for an extra 0.75 of a degree in camber change (both positive and negative depending on which way you turn them ;))

230 lol, I'll eat my own 710 cap if it's got any more than 185

I use one of these for tools, pretty certain it came from B&Q And then a big open tub to carry liquids/torque wrench/anything heavy

First things first this is in no way connected to me lol, just a bit of late night browsing to relieve the boredom of working nights on a bank holiday weekend. Has to be accurate as surely no one would just make up power figures would they lol...

Can't knock you for effort and enthusiasm but why go to all that trouble when it's 2 bolts to swing the axle down out of the way and the exhaust comes straight out? I agree in that the exhaust system probably isn't designed as well as it could have been for ease of maintenance but it's not a...

I found mine a real pain too, I ended up very gently manipulating the pipe end to get it to fit right

You'll want 4 more bolts to attach the frame to the car, m8x40mm 12.9 high tensile cap head bolts are what I use along with the standard 'top hat' nuts Renault used to secure the seat from factory, I also used some washers to help spread the load across the frame as well. In theory you could...