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No different to what could happen between any other engine or belt manufacturer with all pulleys keyed. Try doing a belt on a quad cam v6 with no locking pins or dialing in a rotary fuel pump for 1mm lift on the cam with 3 degrees before TDC with no locking tools and a Clio belt is a pisser.

Lol. If you set up an engine tonight correctly with all genuine tools you could replace the belt tomorrow with just the crank pin and horseshoe so his theory is right. ;)

Lol this old argument. Marks theory is right if its good to start with. As he says its absolutely no different to a set of woodruff keyed pulleys which are obviously timed right from factory on other engines, in fact its easier to do on a Clio than other cars by only slackening the crank as it...

f**k why don't I have 12k to spare just now. Exactly the colour I want mine eventually. Get the mapped checked and bobs your auntie. Its definitely a racer Chip, it hAs everything cup racer about it. The only bad point is I think its an STDA box being one if the first cars.

All you need to do is flatten the hub/extender meeting face when using my pictured extenders. Exactly what you have done with the fat pin in your kit ;) The VW boys still weld the pins to the hub as they get ovaling of the hub using your theory which I have said to you before. No that's just...

This will though and keep everything oem. So easy to make too with some round bar.

Aye I see what your saying, draw a line through the two pivot points and the wishbone angle is irrelevant, the wishbone could be 'v' 'w' or any conceivable shape and it would still make no difference. My theory wasn't quite correct in that sense but it still lengthens the wishbone essentially as...

I do see what your saying but it is still an improvement over standard. That spacer will give static camber and track width which you agree with but it will also make the strut go positive camber in compression before it goes negative due to the wishbone arc. A ball joint extender with the ball...

I fail to see how that hasn't changed the roll centre and the track width? its changed the wishbone angle and how far out the wheel sits without using a hub spacer!!

Its pretty easy to do simply if you use your head. You can extend track and adjust roll centres very simply with a bit of thick plate and some holes drilled in.

Check you out Sheep Shagger!! Get an LED Gaz, Costco are pretty good with warranty's if ones near.

I haven't read the whole thread and I'm not sure anyone has mentioned it yet but why the feck are they re using a water pump casing when you can get new genuine parts for £70. aux kit, pump, coolant = job done. £350 worth of work at the max with genuine parts used.

One of my pet hates on cars is using screws for plates or if you do then doing them half on and off a letter. It comes from doing loads PDI's over the years, its something that takes no extra work to do right. My neighbour managed to get WD63 AMG as the reg, I'm not sure if its a cherished...

Lovely car, my neighbour just bought one and rumble it sends across the road is brutal on cold start up. The only thing I dislike is having 4, yes 4 screws in both registration plates. I just can't understand why Mercedes do this?

Lovely colour that, 3 door and I would be smashing the piggy bank for that. Cage is a bonus.

Just trim it if you really need to keep the cover.

Its been done already when they first came out, I'm sure Nick at PMS will be more than happy to knock a few quid off if you get a few guys together.

Are you sure, the PMS package helps give great turn in and a powerflex dogbone improves acceleration..... Or so I'm told by CS.

When you give it to Sodemo to work there magic and the fact its got 10-15k valve train on it.

On the back axle, no shims on any bolt holes up front, its camber bolts up front.

Definite cup racer it has the matter cage, I have never heard of a maxi Clio mk2 like above and s1600 is on another level under the bonnet and inside. As Andrew said its a racer with S1600 kit. I think it sounds pretty brutal, more like an S1600 or a group n/group a car.

By having the camber bolt in the top hole you will shorten the distance that the shaft has, if you can achieve the camber you want with the bolt in the bottom then that will give you slightly more play for the shaft. Some 1*2 CV's are not available but at a guess if they are for yours it will...

Good find, I have always wanted to see a tuned cup racer incar footage on some uk tracks to compare to the lads on here, never seen any yet.

Yes essentially mate, it will change when turning over the engine by hand but it should settle back to the marks or very close to it. The Allen key hole on the tensioner should point at circa 12 o'clock and not be past the centre stud between the inlet and exhaust cam pulleys iirc. Fred had...

Aky2008 has had some good results on his inlet but its far from a standard engine and its also not a known RR (Russia) Its always put about on here that its pointless to do from the test's Stone automotive done which I just can't/couldn't get my head around. I have heard a few reasons to why...

You can't put the bolts in wrong tbh. You either put too much camber on for your wheel offset and your tyre was touching the strut under load. Your wheel bearing is fecked. Or by putting on camber you have compressed the driveshaft beyond its needed float and the shafts bottoming out and...

Are you forgetting who's account your on lol. @MicKPM it will be good to see someone in Britian try out a more aggressive profile.

Yeah exactly and if you get yourself a name for being a charger in a series then people tend to just move over and concede quickly. I do think I'll be more suited to the sprint format too when I get going, you have someone to peg yourself against and for the flag to flag maximum attack which I...

Another clever advert, Honda do adverts best. http://youtu.be/4mXkjhoOhaM

Please don't jack your car up in the middle of the sill lol, you'll end up with a kinked quarter panel.