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Can you wait till the weekend?
I've got same offset cup racer wheels on mine with same 4 pot wilwoods and the same KW suspension
I can only get -2.5degrees of camber then the tyre touches the strut
I've just bought 20mm FK spacers - they bolt to hub and then you bolt wheel to the spacer...
I wish I'd done that - the power cable the auto electrician made for me looks horrible with joins all over the place but hey ho it'll do for now
On the rack that's an angle sensor and yes you just leave it unplugged
I used the 2 top bolts that were holding the old beam on as they're high...
Are the wheels on the floor? It only works when it can sense torque from the column?
Do you hear a click in the EPAS ECU when you apply power to the +12v wire?
Yup exactly that mate - obviously rear wheels can't be altered easily you have to fit toe shims etc... but front you can then just turn the track rods in or out till the back of the wheel is 1mm further in than the front of the wheel - for 10minutes of toe out
I think standard sport 172/182's...
No no sorry - the steering becomes VERY heavy - not the actual weight of the equipment
If you fit the DCi rack and bin the standard PAS you'll save 4 or 5kg maybe. But it's very difficult to manouver the car at anything less than 15mph. Depends how much you use it off track I guess
Hahaha I've just realised if you join the Lincs convoy down to CSS we could get some awesome photos of slammed euro beast against full blown track beast. Talk about opposites - that'd look awesome!
Yep direct fitment - you swap your trophy tie rod inners and outers onto it and away you go. Bolts directly to your existing column
I will warn you though - it's freakishly heavy for such a small car :(
haha cheers mate
Just looked on B&Q website and they do 15/20mm dowel in 2.4m lengths - so gonna grab 2 of those and then like you say I can make notches at exactly the same distances on both. Get some old fishing line with some heavy metal washers tied on the end and I should be able to do as...
Ignore me - just realised it'll be easier to put 2 long rods front and back - on 4 axel stands. Then tie the fishing line to those so they are equally spaced front to back
Then measure distances to center of wheels to get them aligned :D
Fun for saturday morning lol
Cool that's what I'll aim for
Do you have to compensate for the rear track being narrower than the front when you set the string up?
I read that the 172 has a 1406mm front and 1386mm rear track width - so do I measure the string 10mm further out each side at the back so it's perfectly...
Hrmmm bit of maths searching and found this
Wheel diameter in mm x sin(toe degrees)
10minutes of toe is 0.16degrees
15inch wheel is 375mm
so 375 x sin(0.16) = 1.04mm
So the back part of each wheel should be 1mm roughly further into the car than the front part of the wheel..
Sounds straight...
I want to play around with some different toe/camber settings this year - and really don't want to pay £60 each time to have the local garage monkeys do it
After watching a load of BTCC teams use the string method I've decided to have a go
I understand the concept - fishing line between 2...
If you want to re-grease the splines you only have to cut the cable ties off the dust covers then get someone to work the steering lock to lock while you apply some grease.
I doubt that's the issue though
No you don't
The angle sensor is on the rack - you leave it unplugged
You keep the torque sensor on the column
Unless the torque sensor also does the angle - but then what's the point of the angle sensor on the column?
Or is that for ESP/ABS or something.... Feck me it's all complex lol