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Yeah that sounds more likely thinking about it all The angle sensor is usually just a 0-5v resistor but I think vehicle speed sensors normally produce 5v pulses - so when you turn the adjustor nob something in that little box needs to create a pulse signal to the ecu pretending to be a speed...

Ermmm what does the model have to do with whether you use spring compressors or not? If you have the springs compressed you can push the bottom of the strut up to line the holes up as it's not under tension. I've always fitted struts back onto cars with the springs compressed and then remove...

Ermmmm just a thought have you still got the springs compressed or are you trying to do this with the spring fully extended? :|

^^ Hahaha

I think it does a little more than that as you don't have the steering angle sensor connected so it has to fake that input and there's a bit of a delay between you setting it to high and the assistance increasing so I think there's a bit of some magic going on in the middle But yeah he's...

Yeah mine took 2-3 days to arrive. Brilliant service from the guy I'm wondering when he's gonna run out though considering there's a dozen of us ordering them at the moment lol

Have you only jacked one side up? If you have you'll never do it because the ARB will be pushing that arm up to match the compressed other side Get 2 axel stands and get both sides in the air Piece of piss then

I'll try mate yes - but I didn't take as many photos as I had hoped due to being a bit stressed doing it lol

I didn't bother with the strut tops at all and left the gear linkage in place You can just lever the back of the subframe down enough to pull the rack out :) But yes I assumed when you said you'd dropped the subframe that rear dogbone mount, both the drop bars and the gearbox mount had been...

I gave up - found a very low mileage set on ebay for about £15 so just swapped them both lol Think my old ones are still sat in the garage

Ahh welcome to the bit where you start swearing and losing your knuckles Drivers side wheel arch Remove both the rear subframe bolts completely Undo the front subframe bolts as far as you dare - I think I actually removed the front subframe bolt on the drivers side fully and supported the front...

It'll just be a couple of fuses but like I said you have to disconnect and remove the battery then disconnect and remove the ECU to get to the fuses - hence why previous owner has just ignored them

^^ Cheers chap. off to order them now then I can fit my rear spacers too :)

Agreed. If this kit had been available before I bought my wilwoods I definitely would have gone this route and just whacked 25mm spacers on the wheels

That'll stop you!! :D Do you know what make your front spacers are - I quite like the fact they seem to have steel inserts in them rather than just being alloy

Yes totally agree with that :) I actually owned the 24-70 f2.8L on my 7D and it was a range I could never get on with, just not wide enough. But I put it on my mates 5D and it was mind blowingly good. It's VERY strange you though the 70-200 IQ was worse on the 7D. We did a back to back test...

They're good little calipers They were used on the 406 coupe, the fiat coupe and the evo 5/6 The only issue we used to have with them on the pugs were that they do tend to squeek and the offset of them means you do need quite deep dish alloys But they stop VERY well - probably better than...

You'd get a better screen, better AF system and liveview - but not much else Depends if you could do it for not much money

Cool cheers - I think I'll order some 25mm ones :D

Does the number plate light work at the back too? If it doesn't then it could be a fuse or 2 that's blown They're in a box under the battery on the megane and you have to take the battery and ecu out to get to them - bit weird

Yeah I had a 1000D which I swapped for a 450D and used it for well over a year. Lovely camera I upgraded to a 50D and eventually a 7D just because I wanted the faster shooting speeds but the 450D was awesome

I'm so confused I thought the higher the ET the further in they sat I was definitely told when I bought the 2118's that they would sit further in There's at least a 15-20mm gap between the tyres and the outer arch - the wheels on the back actually scrub the inner arches

You will need 8mm ring connectors for the main earth and power pickup from the battery You will also need a smaller ring connector for the earth from the control box Then you need to splice 4 wires from the torque sensor onto the control box wiring, 2 for the adjustor nob, and 1 for a 12v power...

I think the cup wheels were originally ET38 I may have got that the wrong way round - I know mine are 5mm too far in though lol

He wouldn't understand but he would get poor quality results. Starting up dslr photography on a very very outdated sensor with a minute screen to preview your shots would leave me banging my head against a tree. Might as well buy a gopro if you want to preview things on a screen that small...

;) love you x

Ahhh cool cheers mate - I run 2118's in the ET43 offset so they sit 5mm further in than normal wheels anyway - and I'm running -2.75 of camber So 25mm front spacers should be fine

Yep very true - I can't stand Nikon's they all feel like kids toys, where as Canon's are big chunky heavy things that feel good in your hand. LOL It's a very personal preference I've noticed that too - it's really weird. I've bought and sold over a dozen high end canon lenses and sometimes...

I think that is the single most offensive thing I've ever read in the photography section LOL L lenses can only be really fully appreciated on full frame? Nonsense - the 70-200 2.8L was a beautiful lens on my 7D and the 7D autofocus system is nothing short of magical. Full frame isn't...

http://www.digitalrev.com/product/canon-eos-600d-with-18/MTExMDY_A