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Im no rocket scientist and might be wrong but to me its nothing to do with any map. The op is describing a miss firing engine ??? Rough idle, drop in power for a split second and then pick up again, shaking etc? I think he's getting confused because he has fitted a de cat and it coincides with...
The washer you refer to is probably the fix for knocking top mounts and the spacer is needed for the rear disks but should be in good condition if it is fitted to the car. Your the only one that can say if you need both parts as nobody will know what your car has fitted. Personally I would buy...
That's how there meant to be, couldn't change the camber any other way. The 'cam' at its biggest point is the same size as the 'shank' on the standard bolt.
Stupid question, you are using two spanners to tighten?
You would be surprised how much coding delphi injectors will do, especially on cars like the ford tdci's, I would guesstimate on the Mondys there's about a 20-30% drop in power over time. Read the codes off the side of the injectors input them and bobs yer aunt. Takes 15mins.
It's pretty simple tbh, check and change anything gibbol172cup has mentioned above.
Dont check it yourself if you DON'T know what your doing as it will just result in more of these silly threads that people never seem to use search and three people in the same day ask about the same thing over...
It's hard to tell without seeing, if the cars starting and running but has a lack of power then you would think turbo or fuel pressure somewhere. It would usually bring up some kind of fault code after a run if it isn't working right, it might not point you in the right direction though. Have...
It says it in the name really, 195/whatever/whatever or 205/whatever/whatever
So in lemans terms that's 195mm of tread touching the ground against 205mm touching the ground.
Go figure what's best. Thread closed lol.
Yeah I meant MAF /AFM
if injectors are fine, engine has good compression and the pumps receiving correct fuel, turbo is working as it should and egr is good it must be the control side.i.e ecu,pressure sensors or your HP pump itself.
Does your car have 3 pumps. Lift pump, charge pump and HP...
Fan is just probably the switch.
Have they done an injector leak off test, drove the car while monitoring live data of pump pressure and compared it against the norm at certain revs etc. Do they have an AFM on dci's?
Presuming its all running and starting fine now with no fuel draining back etc, have they tried re-flashing the ecu or trying another ecu after that gadgy had a play with yours?
It's a fully electric solenoid on them HP pumps, ECU decides all. No old school mechanical tweaking of the fuel...
Grease from the CV has caused it and 15 months is a long time mate. Your going to need two new driveshafts,disks,pads,and maybe abs sensors soon if you don't get that seen too.
No not so much, I pass the trades colour test fine, bold colours aren't much of an issue thankfully.
No matter what colour blindness you are they will let you do the ARDS and if you pass the flag part your good.
It's normal for tired brakes to go like that, short or infrequent journeys will cause it. In your case it looks like your burst CV boot has been throwing grease onto your disk though. New disk/pads and CV boot time for you!!
All depends what model of 1*2 you have remember, its not a one fits all situation, they are all different track widths so different spacers needed. Ph1 will get away with the biggest spacers because there narrow.
Yup I would have no problem tackling the job but I'm guessing the op wouldn't if he is looking for a cheap bolt on option.
p.s I think its sprung metal that's used, no??
:cry: Not until I'm Tony's age mind you.
Seems to be the going rate up here, 1/2 hour with the doctor at my local is what I was told I needed, HGV etc is the same. Like I said though that was cheap, I went to where I get my work medical and they wanted 278+vat lol..... I could do the med...