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65kw is about 90bhp. going by what you have said again I think you can rule out injectors as you have swapped from Delphi (dci 80) to Bosch (dci 100) so I can't see there bring confusion there.

So from what you have said the noise went away with new injectors which points towards diesel knock and the 100 injectors you had fitted have washed the bores and now there's little compression and you've re-fitted those shitty injectors that was causing the knock.

Smell the oil first for fuel. Give it a whiff of easy start if oils okay then if no joy put some oil down the bores, let it settle and try a compression test again.

You'll spend loads of money on consumables and gear to paint it yourself Mark, not worth it IMO if its just one job your doing. Is that an air con condenser I see in the bottom left ???:S http://www.picturemoi.com/Audi%20S3%20project/pics5/DSC_0064.jpg

:o

Were they new injectors fitted? Bosch right?

Cheapest would be too buy 2nd hand cup upper and lower alternator bracket and alternator. Remove air con rad, condenser etc, nothing else needed apart from the high pressure PAS pipe should be changed for cup but you can bend it to suit anyway.

Daz cup had figures similar to that iirc, he dragged the car and it was up for sale maybe 3 months ago on here.

They were never sold in the U.K although maybe in Portugal. It's possible to swap between interiors and exteriors on both cars though

You went from non coded injectors to coded with two different manufacturers of components in your fuel system. I don't see how that is working, Bosch injectors are completely different to Delphi?

Yeah you can have them down plated as whatever they are plated for has to be added to your tow vehicle weight giving your gross. Copied from another forum. Licences held from 1 January 1997 If you passed your driving test after 1 January 1997 and have an ordinary category B (car) licence...

Me too, used it as a quick wipe over after a wash and it lasts for days. 2 for a 5er can't be frowned at either.

Brian James Clubman is a really good little trailer for a Clio and you won't loose money when you come to sell if you get it 2nd hand. All trailers are different in size even the Clubman comes in a few sizes. Its just something you have to measure. I would advise a double axle braked trailer at...

Nice bits. Is pure finalized the kit then going by all the bag's of bolts you have to fit it? What kind of coating is that on the hubs and arms?

Group n, your car doesn't have the mods to supper a group a right?

MAF inactive, thats why its flat as. EGR circuit open usually means unplugged when it flashes that code. Did you sort it out?

Re: how much have u sunk into ure clio Wise choice. I done it about 4 months ago and never again, I shat myself tbh

Pads will always wear more on the piston side, it goes hand in hand with single piston callipers. Your brakes are sparking because of the high carbon content (iirc) that is in them.

So I would say your going to need some mapping. I have never worked on a car/van/bus or truck with two manufacturers doing the fuel system. I think there is your problem. You have Bosch injectors running on a Delphi fuel system?

I can't see just the injectors being the only difference between the 65/80/100. That's a 45bhp difference from just injectors? There must be more boost, fuel pressure or both to achieve that figures. I would say at least you need it re-mapped or the 85/100 data flashed onto yours. You say there...

In short yes but you never mentioned fog lights ;)

For MSA the rain lights have always to be in the centre unless you have one at either side i.e fog lights. It's so you can tell the position of the car on track.

Bleed until it comes out. Some cars don't like certain types of fluid iirc so I would check that out first

Chip-mk1 could maybe advise.

Re: how much have u sunk into ure clio Surely that was just your initial cost of building? Around 17k or so when I'm finished including purchase price :o That includes a good few spare suspension parts, 3 sets of wheels and tyres. Would hate to think of the cost if it wasn't built by...

Soak everything in wd 40 for days prior to removing, might be the difference between braking or coming out fine. Just use a screw driver to knock the tabs out and pull the retaking plate out. You will see the tabs on the front and the back of the box that comes down off the chassis leg.

Arite Mark fair beasty you have got. Just scotbright for a key and rub down any rough bits then degrease it and paint. Make sure the degreaser is paint friendly so it sticks. Tack cloths are good for picking up bits of dust from the rubbing down.

Depends what kind of tools you have at home, them mounts can be had for pennies anyway but..... Centre dab the bolt, drill a hole carefully in the centre, soak in wd40 for a while if the piece is tight and then use an easy out or an old male torque socket to wind it out. Or nut over the top and...

Bushes are understable, should be stitch welded every cm or so IMO. For an induction kit they make good numbers for £'s and thank feck I never went to TDF in the end, once can be forgiven almost with James's car but twice and they're at it. Did you swap over from a ATB diff Russ?

That's really heavy James. My CDS cage was 38kg with all base plates and front turret bars when I weighed it. I never fitted the front turret bars( bad idea) I added dash bar, axle pick ups, harness bars, rear strut brace and a and b pillar tie ins + seat rails. I'd bet mine ain't too far off...