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Cheers James, the rad had a balls hair between the crossmember but I haven't fitted the dog bone mount yet so may increase. I have a powerflex twisted type but after fitting the engine last night and not having much experience with the Clio mechanicals, the dog bone is the most crucial mount on...

When you test fitted smokey was that on scenic disks?

So it is possible to fit the upgraded radiators using standard lower rad mounts and cup alternator setup but it's very close, trimming of the lower alt mount would increase room. My question is what options do I have for a different lower mount, volvo 440 (of some description) lower mount work's...

Cheers Sonny

Nice one Mark, so are sequential boxes allowed in your class? its purely power to weight for team trophy and 1b tyres.

Few pics of today's work, engine/box back in finally, mocked up everything for fit.

Was you left with the central control unit (UCH)? Any circuit you would say to avoid choping from or just chase things back that you don't want and chop!

2nd that Northloop, burpspeed have been helpful for many building a Clio including me.

You'll be fine then. Good luck

When I mean full wets, are you running a cut slick suitable for road like 888's, direzza's or something like that or something like these, proper race wets

Just googled Gafney lol, so im guessing they are in mk3 clio's? Lesser powered cars will have the advantage, id say you will be about level pegging if you have a diff! If they are running full wets you'll have no chance mate if its coming down horizontal.

Impressed with this idea.

Blue printed blocks ;) around 200bhp, you should be okay. What circuit you on?

Fluid boiling over and coming out the bottle. Run the the level below minimum to allow expansion while on track. Signs of a wearing pump to me but some say its normal.

what is this?

Sodemo engine with all the ancillaries you'd be looking at around 80k-100k iirc in parts and around 260bhp with the single throttle body, some had ITB's I believe with more power, someone could confirm, there not cheap though.

Very nice, Sodemo and cheap never go in the same sentence lol. You should get very nice salvageable parts in there. Its the induction system that supposedly makes all the power on these engines and the fact they rev to the moon.

That would have been my first choice but with time constraints, I just wanted it done. I get blasting done for free and I get good results with little effort so I thought why not. Next engine will be getting PC cam cover at least

LOL, My machine shop would do it if needed thats why I dont say. Exactly, I have been advised its pointless by guys that skim disks weekly. I recently machined a flywheel with rough casting on the rear just like disks have in the vanes and it was pap on after, decent brake disks have good...

I just looked at your thread, there identical. I was going to paint my breather plate black as well, might not now lol. I guess you used VHT paint as well then? Green was my preferred choice but VHT don't do any.

Mike I have tried to PM you but your inbox is full.

Few pics for those with ITB's that are interested in what I have done to breather plate and thermostat housing. I have seen better welding but it will do with a grind and paint. I had some pins welded to the bottom of the rad to use standard mounts.

Good idea. I need to leave my lock up soon so I'm tempted just to keep it whole get everything together and running, no issues with chopping down etc, run standard battery etc then paint interior and redo wiring in the new year.

Blond moment, mine still have writing on them but never paid attention, it must say "super fu**ing hard" on them somewhere. No is the easy answer, you would need cup racer/laguna hubs, pure motorsport top mounts,RCA pins, uniball holders, longer shafts and cup tie rods and track rods lol or...

Lol boxes aren't fun to swap on the 4x4's either. If i snap a main shaft on my Clio I will be a happy man, but can't see it's 180lbft of torque going near one :p haha. Yeah the the omex wiring seems easy enough, it's chopping down of the interior stuff that I'm not looking forward to, haven't...

Yeah I honestly think I will love it too Chris, it cleans the engine bay of fluid reservoir and stupidly expensive P/S pipe, run a a shorter belt and nothing else required on a cup, you don't need the pump as an idler gear either so whip that out.

Yeah I cut the breather plate in two, had all the holes welded and AN boss's welded to it, I will get picks up tonight. Boss's were welded into thermostat housing to save drilling and tapping as well. I have heard the boxes don't like to be rushed and Yanoo said with the same kit fitted to his...

I'd like to know the poundage on the springs to, they appear to be standard clio cup rate the the softer nurburgring dampers were yellow. These are absolutely solid mark, when you jack the car down and it hits the ground, you would think there is steel rods in place of the struts.

Firing order 1,3,4,2 of your average 4 pot. So what your saying is the engine batch fires 1,3 for one revolution of crank then 4,2 the next revolution or something like that, but with your ecu cam sensor you can have individual firing. I was under the impression the ecu knew exactly where to...

Fair enough I thought it had something to do with more accurate measurement of the variabl valve timing. It sounds more accurate, most of that has went over my head really lol, I understand wasted spark but I always thought injectors fired at tdc on each cylinders power stroke?? Im wrong about...