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Yeah the kits great, best feature is its adjustability to suit the preferred stiffness your after. Im going to get my mate to knock up a nylon gear knob as well then just cut it down and re-machine until im happy, is yours off the shelf jobbie? Yeah I think he was having issues by not running an...
Im not sure but the few flights I was on recently, they stopped off in Shetland to download data, im sure it would be an after flight check or it would be if I was a pilot.
Swapping 197 cam cover over shouldn't be too much an issue to swap over, you would need the cover and head matched mind...
You would never guess it was a 60,000 mile engine, was leaking like a sieve from everywhere else but that's been sorted now.
You have just bought the "stiff shift" I have a full gear stick, I think he calls it his fast road shifter. Mine came with an all new gear stick (50mm longer) his latest...
Ahrite, just put 2 and 2 together when I heard it was a gearbox lubrication failure on the radio and was under the impression that the "bad batch" were still in service as they were unsure of exact location of some. They spend long enough in shetland downloading data, you would think the pilots...
Coming to the bit I haven't been looking forward to "The wiring" I dont get along with wires, hoping it should be trouble free with my new loom.
No worries, I got a few manuals there all as gash as each other, no torque stetting tables.
Its not bodging if you do it right, what do you think the DCI rack is? Mine is done exactly the same with a fluid loop, better ratios and of better construction than the weedy dci rack.
Loads of people say its terrible. People ran non power steered cars for years, its just a luxury to have...
Another G/box oil failure, same case. About time they grounded them all and found this dodgy batch of parts. Thank f**k im not flying on choppers just now.
Looks like a scaffolding holding your engine in but its looking good? Why don't you just run 197/200 cam position sensor on the rocker cover?
So had a busy last few days stripping, getting stuff blasted, cleaning, painting and rebuilding the engine. All new gasket, seals, belt, dephaser, lightweight pulleys, paddle clutch, ARP rod bolts and fitted the 421's. Knocked the lightened flywheel on the head for just now, need things back...
The calliper fits and is the right offset for scenic disks from what smokey has said, all that need's done is the disk diameter reduced which is pretty trivial. You wont get much easier when borrowing parts from other cars to do a brake upgrade. I done a similar conversion on my fiesta, hubs...
Nice one, would be perfect for when I go racing. Have you swapped out cup track tods chip, is it long enough? So how does it work, eccentric wheels inside I guess and do they have a knurled texture on the teeth/wheels for grip.
The Espace calliper conversion is possible you just need to machine disks, hubs or calipers or I have a complete 197/225 kit for sale just now that suits the standard 280mm disks, no modification needed.
Sale thread: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?666845-172-182-Brembo-Brake-Upgrade
Has anyone used one of these tools for changing inner track rods on the 172/182, seems like a really good option.
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=320792441592&index=1&nav=SEARCH&nid=13754933186
You can add a DCI electronic assisted column to the rack and add a box of tricks available on eBay to make the DCI steering variable.
Another option is just remove the power steering pump run a shorter belt, keep your cup rack, chop all pipes to rack, blank and fill pinion with grease then fill...
Re: Road/Track 172
Right perfect, engine is getting my attention just now.
Not sure mate, I can always get it packaged up and get it sent out when your home.
Re: Road/Track 172
Looking promising so far, I haven't managed to get that file sorted yet sorry.
Do you want me to wait for you coming home before posting timing tools??
Hope you get on okay with it, would be good to know if the drive flange is the same as well then I could just buy off the shelf bearings.
I think you would have bent the arm if it wasn't the type of hit it took, it looked to have caught the inside of the concrete slab pulling the wheel outwards.
Sorry but I can't help think if the calipers were only needing some taken of the disk diameter to fit( a few mm off was your words smokey) as in the disk offset was right then you can't just use a flat plate as there's no room to do so!
Do the calipers line up offset wise with the hubs when...
Agreed its not ideal but wouldn't put me off one bit, I'm not on about hacking them up with hammer and chisel or that, just take a few mm chamfer on a bench grinder( which essentially is what a disk is doing to the pads anyway) We used to do so all the time on trucks and expensive brake setups...
EVOgone i thought the racers had stiffer bushes and some mild stiffening to the axle?
Surprised at the hub prices, I expected much more. Extender pins are only around £30 each, most suspension pieces I have bought are around that, rear shocker top and bottom mounts, rose joints, uniballs.
I did say chamfer the pad to avoid contact between the pads when worn, brakes aren't some black art to me, not to be messed with for your average person but use your head and you'll be okay.
For all the difference there seems to be from pictures for the 280mm disk, couldn't be more than a 5mm overhang( around 8cm squared of area you will loose) I say this idea as its an easier option for the conversion as most people will be put off by needing disks machined, makes sense for smokey...
Somewhere around that can't remember exactly, I was the guts of 600 bucks for everything I got but that was all new sensors, Zetec crank sensor bracket, crank signal splitter, launch control button, full throttle gear change switch, aux wiring kit, relays added in. Might be wrong but I seem to...
So the looms are all measured out to right lengths etc? I look to mount my ecu inside, do you think that's possible, it looks to be but can't be sure yet.
TBH why don't you use the standard disks as you will only have a few mm's of overhang by the look of it. Chamfer the edge of the pad to suit, the extra clamping force the two pistons will have should be enough and you will still see an improvement I would think.