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Bad news smokey, i did think there would be a problem but from what you have said a little bit off the disks diameter on the lathe to save you wasting cash on those disks untill you find different disk. Aren't fiat 20v turbo same PCD and centre bore as Clio and they have 288m disks iirc. What's...
190 degree c at 0 psi boiling point, that's a fair bit more than a 70/30 mix coolants boiling point at around 140 deg c maximum and then that mixture is a little to strong to be ideal with the increased viscosity which makes it harder for the radiator to cool at that mixture.
Related slightly but have you seen this stuff, it is quite expensive but good for overheating cars with a limited space to upgrade cooling.
Waterless coolant, it gets good right ups too.
http://www.evanscooling.com/products/coolants/high-performance-coolant/
How much would I get for my 4 without going on eBay as I dropped it down the toilet today( I know I'm a tw*t it was first thing in the morning and the first time iv ever damaged an apple product thank feck)
I walked into apple today and got a 16gb 5 on o2 no issues seems better than waiting...
It's not a cup then If he has bought and fitted some parts then right? Cups definately have a small valve at the rear where a compensator would be, it dosent attach to axle to sense load like a 172/182, it is there purely for manual adjustment, like I said above, stud and lock nut to adjust.
Fit a 197 MC if its an issue, I'm sure there is a thread here somewhere, you have to adjust pipe work iirc.
I also did a similar upgrade on my fiesta Zetec s van with mondeo calipers and 300 mm disks, with its lack of power being a 1.8 diesel you could actually feel the difference to accelerate...
If its one side it points toward a seized caliper especially if its glowing red lol. Cups still have adjustment in the rear adjustment valve, there's an Allen keyed stud with a lock nut that needs undone and wound in or out to adjust, sounds like brakeing force needs wound forward if its locking...
My loom must be different to yours then, I have furel pump and dash outputs all as part of mine, covered in raychem heatshrink. I will be running my ecu inside then any extra length in cable will get coiled up if needed inside but everything seems to directly go to components and are all varying...
I'll bare that in mind mate, painter will probably sort me out though.
Have you went as far as FG doors aswell or just boot and bonnet?
Yeah after mocking it up I decided it was pretty pointless as it was other than for rolling off course. Connecting the whole car together on all the...
Are those connectors you have from Simtek uk Pingpong? Easiest option for omex Phil is to buy there race loom, I'm going to be mounting my ECU on the inner bulkhead and it has all those outputs you wanted wired in. You can even have them wire fuel pump & fan relay into the loom to get rid of...
Im in the process of refreshing my engine and I have these seals from a bottom end gasket kit ( I think) that I have no idea where they go, tried all sensors etc for the washers.
Can anyone help with what these seals are for, im sure they came out of my bottom end gasket set but it was a while ago.
And have these water pumps been super seeded, they look like cheap crap, marked Renault but I thought they had a cast impellor.
Yeah I remember something changed, pro tree huggers and all that. I was looking for quotes at the time they changed and they were all unsure on prices, didn't know how the paint's would react together and couldn't bake it as quick.
This guy usually uses boat paints for the rally lads he does as...
Lovely bit of kit for the price I thought, with a few pieces welded on the standard rubber mounts can be used which I would like to use for the expansion and vibration. I will see in the next week if it's going to work with cup bracket.
Cheers
My stupidity really, using an old towel to stop seem sealer smoke coming through gear change hole and protect some of the dash, thought it was a bit bright in my hood when I was welding lol. My lovely new steering wheel almost got it to. Plus side like you say dash will be a snug fit...
Cheers, yeah it's getting there. I have 421's, I wanted the wildest I could have without new pistons or buying Schrik cam's. I have still to dig out my loom and connect battery etc etc been concentrating on other bits just now sorry. Yours must be mapped by now eh, BHP????? Tyre number would be...
Im hoping to be built before Christmas but thinking about it I will probably just do some miles around the farm I'm on rather than going to knockhill. Loads of snow predicted this year supposedly, im hoping anyway. Get up the hills loads so I think most of the winter will be a right off for me...
The rod still looks pretty good/still in place and attached to the piston from your picture. Is there a threaded part of the rod bolt still left in the rod, that would say that the arp has broke then.
Something like this on the williams engine. I have heard there's a comon fix similar to this for when you put an f4r into a mk1. Just need to find out for sure but my searching has failed.
Oh ohhh, been so long since the engine was in I cant remember how far out the alternator comes out, Iceman fitted his no issues I think, well as far as I know. If its a problem I will use a cup racer style tensioner. I think a renault 5 one works.