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did you noticed any difference back when you had the inlets matched? i guess you have the rs stamped ones, people say that you won't feel much matching these, that's why I'm asking
AST ones. nice to see you can play with the camber/caster settings. wish I had them :(
k-tec not bad, good quality it seems, I'm running them for a year now, but wish they had some adjustment
try to identify where exactly is knocking and then go from there. shame you couldn't live with the solid mounts, I like the fact mine got me rid of the knock and I'm ok with the vibrations
more than a year with the milltek now and it's fine. they had problems with the welds in the past, I asked them about this and there was a bad batch. anyway, the guys who experienced problems got their parts replaced under warranty, so customer service is spot on. it sounds the way you want to...
original hole is left in place, and re-drilled one 6 mm further, as far as I remember k-tec did this with their cup pack coilovers. some maths involved when doing this because you can mess the camber if drilling in the wrong place
good choice these tyres. had them for couple of months before damaged one of them and had to run exalto's again. they certainly felt better in the dry. stiffer sidewall as well, really noticeable when off the rim
heard a story that the rs driveshafts are a little bit too long, and add stress on them while on full lock or when excessive neg camber is applied.
if that's the case then longer joints should do the trick?
I'm on solid top mounts but the full lock knocking is still there on occasions. or is it...
I'm after these bolts but wanted to know their part no.
As I know so far the part no is 5.81260k
Some traders sell them as "clio Mk2 camber bolts", even if std bolts are different in RS models. these bolts I know for sure that are smaller in diameter than the std ones, but would they fit the...
I did it this way and it worked fine. others welded all around the sleeve. I think care is needed when doing so, i'm not sure about the polyurethane's resistance to heat. mind you that I had the sleeves spot welded on both sides so it should work just fine
I also thought that one of the front abs rings are damaged because i'm getting "pedal farts" at low speeds. but looked at the ring a few days ago and it looks good. abs sensor then? any ideas?
getting them of is like fred said
20-30 mm will be just right, it will be noticeable and still have a good ground clearance for those speedbumps
as above, get a new or used set of eibach sportlines, they're the best springs for the 1*2's
correct. you have to weld the lower arm outer sleeves to the arms:
or else they will come off and rub on the subframe mounting brackets. been there, done that..
they do. you'll probably never have to change them :D
don't listen to "they'll make the ride harsher" crap, I didn't feel anything harsh with mine
I also had the lower arm bushes at one time, nothing harsh there as well
I like the BTB for it's tailpipes and built quality. janspeed are pretty good it seems. my milltek hasn't cracked so far so I must have nailed a good batch :D. it looks good too
but yeah go for the yozza firstly