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hard to find megane blocks around here (if not impossible) and they must be expensive also (combined with the gearbox). You can get them on e-bay I suppose but the price would be a problem. the VW gearbox option which Scoff adopted should be cheaper
hey hey we're drifting!
car definitely is between the 380-400+ area, doesn't matter that much!
it needs a gearbox-fact!
shall we move the conversation in that area? :D
the car has Haltech stand alone, and over 4 bar of fuel rail pressure, the fuel regulator is set to open at 4 bar. if additional pressure comes through the vacuum hose from the turbo boost the regulator opens above 4 bar, thus holding above 4 bar pressure in the injectors=more fuel
We have here a turbo 172, problem is the original gearbox needs an upgrade or find another one capable of taking 400+bhp and massive torque.
car presented here:
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?448500-my-Clio-Sport-99BFF&p=7173011&highlight=#post7173011
The owner took me last...
got rid of the problem today
I used some high temp silicone on the plenum-lower inlet area (below and above the gasket-about 1-1,5mm thick squeezed out of the tube, surrounding each inlet), and bought the missing bolt holding the plenum.
the noise is gone, and the "revvin' when braking" initial...
it's one of those two closer to the engine (from the total of five which hold the plenum to the lower inlet, three towards the grille and two towards the engine)
I have a missing bolt there, but it's been like that for about one year. It had been over-tightened and the thread was gone. I guess that means a new lower inlet if I wanna screw another bolt in right?
the map sensor has two tiny gaskets(maybe the o-rings you are talking about?), one of them was lightly damaged. but the thing is, as I said before, I listened closely and the sound gets louder in the inlet air temp sensor area.
anyway, I have a friend with a 172 ph2, are these sensors good to...
I think I won't be able to get this problem sorted till the end of next week, you think this can get nasty? should I leave the car for the next couple of days?
brake wise you could get the 1*2 setup like above^
but I wouldn't bother with an engine swap. valvers (even willy's) are pretty cheap these days, and you will probably end up cheaper buying one of those than doing an engine conversion.
are you sure they are ds 2000, and not 2500?(never heard of ds 2000, I may be wrong though) the 2500 have to be filed down top and bottom in order to move freely in the carrier. about 1 mm of clearance on each side you file will be ok. get rid of the metal shims. word is they catch dirt and...
got someone to rev the car while i tried to listen up closely. it looked like the sound came from the intake air temp sensor's area. I remember when mounting back this sensor it had one of it's lock pins broken, yet it still went in properly and won't come out easily. can this thing make that...
yes it is blanked, but there's a gasket on the plenum, that's what danny was about.
anyway, just got out and took out the plenum again, got rid of the silicone and put it back together. of course it's still the same... :mad:
hmmm, that is sealed with some high temp silicone right? Odd as I removed the plenum when checked the plugs last spring and didn't get any noise even without repacking with silicone that area.