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Another ENM lives on - Sorn ATM thou . Good read - Subscribed

Good luck removing the hinges from the Alloy bonnet - they are renowned for snapping . It's more work fitting the hinges .

Not a major issue changing this seal , once it's removed the process is quite easy fitting the new one . Offer up the seal to the gearbox and tap around the edge evenly so the seal goes in straight . With regard to how far - measure the seal depth before you remove it if you can , then you'll...

IMHO , the only reason I'm doing it is because I want to eliminate any PAS pump and prevent fluid failures under the bonnet that would then wreck the alternator , "belts" engine and generally don't want oil spills out on track that would cause a problem .

HRW relay is not in the engine bay fella as far as I'm aware . It'll be the bigger relay on the interior UCH .

Have a read in here http://www.cliosport.net/index.php?threads/Pictures-of-your-looped-rack-for-EPAS%2E-What-fittings-have-you-used%3F.772015/

Well there are round holes in it :Wink

You mean these Mark

Especially it being on a 182 . Ph2 Deffo keep

I've taken a cold air feed from my fogs .

I'll make you all laugh , picked up a bit of scrap metal out of the bin and got cutting . Turned out all right I recon. What do you lot recon lol.

Right rear needs a 30 min / half of a degree shim , and that'll bring that right in spec

Years gone by - we used to cut off that connection and replace it with a new spade connector . Cured it every time . More than likely it's over heated over time and is either dirty or current overload burnt which is why it fails.

I've had creaking from within the rack before . It turned out to be a dry rack and pinion on the left side of the rack. I removed the n/s rack gator and lubed rack bed as necessary and all was good . Worth a try as its cheap.

@Fraser.J. Have you any pics of where you mounted the pins.

cs_dave . I'm a bit confused with the quoted . You say they look better than aero . What do ? You've not said. I mean : the Op is about aero catches and I posted an alternative.

Car is coming along nicely - subscribed also . I'll be removing wiring from the rear at some point , but it's got to warm up first lol .

Mine is a roadie also , so locking is No1 priority. Do look good though

Really like these - but not having a locking system on them would be pointless using them.

@Ben NBR Cup , any updates fella . Have you done anything ?

Have a read in here http://www.cliosport.net/index.php?threads/Pictures-of-your-looped-rack-for-EPAS%2E-What-fittings-have-you-used%3F.772015/

This is a common issue I have found . I would suggest warming up the said catch and gently bending it into shape . It can't be that hard . Make a template out of cardboard the curve of the boot lid and then you will have the curve to work to when shaping the catch . I'll be doing just this...

I ran DS2500's , had them in for ages , used on road as well . Always performed well for me . As its been said its all down to how you abuse them that denotes if they perform well or not .

Ah that's handy - inlet coming off soon as I have my RS2 going on , so I'll do the rack business after its installed . Nice one .

Can you Pm me a pic of the bits please . Like to see what you got on offer [emoji106]

Nice one - you cheap skate lol :tounge out . I'm now guessing you can sealer the rack in situ ? Did you ? Or did you have the rack out.

Okee dokee cheers , I'll take a look then. With regards to the bolts , are they flat headed so to hide under the outer trim ?

I own a Ph1 172 and have always been curious as to what protocol it actually is . OBD or OBD2 . Would love to know as I want to buy a compatible Elm327 dongle to transfer my Revs and other info to my Harry's lap timer app. Oh forgot to say the app is on IOS

Have you an eBay link to the bolts and spacers please ?