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As someone else said, the fastest way is just to weld a nut to it, the heat will expand it and crack the rust seal at the same time, it'll be a lot faster than a easy out, etc.
As the design is at the moment it couldn't be easily moulded without some hassle, as it has sectional changes throughout that result in quite a lot of undercut areas on both sides - I'd have to revise it, but I don't think that really makes sense at the current numbers.
That's great news, hopefully was just the rubber remains in yours stopping it going up tight then.
I may have to think about buying a few housings and offer them pre-fitted on the production ones, just to make things easier for people needing a fast swap.
I can just sandblast them up here in...
Great, what was the fit like in the mounts?
I have revised them and made them a little tighter fit as I did have one - sysaks - that wasn't as tight as it should be - although everyone else's has been good.
Depends what you're building the car for, you'll get a lot more feel and feedback without a PAS rack, so if it's just a fast road/track car, it's great, more fun.
If it's a daily driver for shopping then it'll can get a bit tedious. If it's a race car, keep the power steering, because being...
You go too far out with spacers you'll start putting a lot more load on tie rods, rod ends, etc, the steering will kickback, it'll tramline, and any braking or grip imbalances will pull the car from side to side.
It's your scrub radius that's the main issue, not Ackermann, although as with everything with suspension, they're slightly inter-related. Ackerman is only really going to affect steering effort at low speeds with loads of lock on (parking, etc), it's not really something you need to touch at all...
Yes, they're a common design, I've had a 110 rewound to output 155amp before for racer.
There's not many places left doing it now though unless you do it yourself.
I'm in Cornwall, I have to stand on one leg, pat my head and rub my stomach to get a phone signal for 'net...
I swear someone asked me the other day what Google was.
You should bleed it with it screw fully down just so you don't have any chance of the piston moving and trapping air, or vacuum bleed it. I'd be checking the rear brakes too, sounds like a sticky caliper or someting else going on.
The inline ones, not a bias pedal box?
They're not a bias valve, they're a proportioning/pressure reducing valve, so it shouldn't have any influence on initial bite unless it's plumbed in wrong (has someone put it in the front line?!) or has no preload in the spring.
That's pretty good, friend of mine took his old Simca to be acid dipped before I welded all new parts in and the guy refused to lift it out of the tank because it was bending every time they tried there was so little left...
I'd love to go cheaper, but unfortunately with the simple solid poly cast ones they can probably turn out 50 of them in the same time it takes me to make one, not even counting the oven time.
I don't think there's any problem with giving the usual 2-year warranty against defects or faults...
Right, instructions are done, I think they're relatively straightforward, I'll post them up later so people can see if I should add anything (I guess bolt sizes and torque specs for the housing might be a good idea)
The thing to remember with the big guns and especially the wired ones is that they're so bulky that you can't get them in most places, I've a little Makita (281 I think) which is more powerful than the big Clarke or similar ones even though it's half the size and compact enough to use in the...
I've got an SGS jack, it's been a complete piece of crap, it's forever creeping, sometimes it drops, it went back under warranty and came back and was good for a couple of weeks and then back to the same - the bolts all come out because they're not locktited, and the release valve just sheared...
Those thin titanium or stainless shims you can get to fit behind the pads help a surprising amount too - we melt the grease out of the CV's - it pours out like gearbox oil - before it melts the boots in the calipers with the buggy, using stainless backing pads instead of steel.
Yes, I've already made a pair and tested them, they can still be fitted by hand albiet a bit harder to do, in a clean dry housing, so all good there. A bit of water alone is enough to get them into a housing with rubber remanants.
I'm in the middle of trying to write some idiot-proof...
If it's any consolation I went to remove a faulty rear ABS sensor, which is a single M6 bolt and just pull out and clip in a new one.....and it resulted in me having to take the entire hub off, brakes, etc, weld a nut to the now-demolished siezed little bolt, and then beat the plastic ABS sensor...
Will do, It's a little frustrating, but it's just a waiting game at the moment.
I could just do a group buy now to be honest but a little extra testing never hurt anyone :D
Well, apart from my material stock levels anyway.
It's going to depend on numbers and any revisions, and what Kev needs to hit if he stocks them (and retail packaging costs, etc) - but I'm looking at around the same price as the Powerflex options at the minute - and hopefully just below. I'll try to update on price this week.