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Seen one patched up with fibreglass and hopes and prayers before :D Yeah, that's shot, even if you repaired it it'll crack further around, you can see where it's propagating. That and the casing will have shifted when it went under load so the diff bearings won't be true to each other any more...

Some of that is b****cks really, the rebound and rebound damping curve required *will* change depending on the spring preload. because you change the forces especially near full rebound travel. Changing the handling and chassis behavior too. Usual case of a little bit of knowledge being a...

Sorry Marquez, didn't see the other PM for some reason - I've sent you a message.

You can only use thinner tubing if you get the cage designed certified by somewhere like MIRA as a 3rd party, you're looking at adding a grand to the cost of a one off-cage for that alone.

They're going to need to be printed in polycarb or a fibre-filled ASA/Nylon blend, or just nylon, really, to stand any chance of surviving. 3D printing something that size in decent material isn't cheap. 3D printing is cheap when you consider you don't have to make moulds for prototypes and...

Probably cost you as much to have them printed as just buying some replica alloys

I would suggest switching to a split outer-race bearing to make sure you have very low preload, fill that with a silicone damping grease, and fit a grub screw to the housing so you can just nip it up enough to remove any play that might contribute to the rattling without getting the shift too...

Yes, that's me :)

Yes, they're printed Bankrupt - there's actually internal voids/geometery in there that would be pretty much impossible to replicate otherwise. For everyone else, heating them to help with fitting is fine - use a heatgun or hairdryer is better than water though as you can keep it warm as you...

Anyone want some brand new Firstline bushes? I only bought them to use the housings, have two sets. Free if you collect 'em, or cover the postage.

You didn't hang around!

No, it's a deformed nut - that's why there's two flats on the thread - the nut actually distorts to give a locking effect, like K-nuts.

They can usually trim them in what you want if you're wanting leather/vinyl, etc, but the high sides are probably an issue though, even on their smaller seats.

Has it got to be those two Frayz? I'd suggest having a chat with Motordrive if not, they'll tailor the seat to your body dimensions if you wish, the bases are a bit deeper though with them being aimed at competition only.

Roddisons and Bram are both good options, I know Bram through the racing and I use Roddisons myself now and again.

Doesn't need to be bolted to the chassis at all, just depends how the mountings flex. Hell my rear wing bolts to some thin 2mm ally straps on the mudguards and it'll have 10x the downforce these ebay specials develop - you just have to remember that the drag as well as the downforce is pretty...

Yeah, it's just the distance you marked there on the graph is nothing like what they are - realistically they probably do something more like this: But even then you need at least a 3d or 4d graph really for brake compounds - they're pressure and time sensitive as well as temperature.

I haven't really had enough interest in the Mk2 ones yet - those that have them seem to like them but I guess there's a lot of cheaper options around for uprated lowers - so it doesn't really make sense to start developing for Mk3's as well :)

I'd take that friction graph with a big pinch of salt because the ends where they drop off are completely made up. Probably by a marketing guy who just set them to go to zero the minute they didn't have a data point. It's absolutely no use outside of the actual working temperature ranges they've...

1144's are pretty decent from right from cold.

For our offroad stuff you either make an ally cover that's clamped together and completely sealed, or you leave them wide open with just a couple of stone shields so that anything that gets in goes straight back out - anything in between is big trouble.

Rotherham

If someone local to me has one I can look at I might be able to come up with something NVH wise.

I always run the tilton knob-type ones, prefer having fine adjustment over the lever type ones, Tilton are good quality at a decent price, I'd take them over most of the cheap options like CNC, Compbrake, etc.

I have to service my SGS jack more than I use the damned thing. I'm about to rip the thing to pieces and replace all the hydraulics with parts not made out of toffee with a hand file by an 8 year old chinese kid, but I'm not sure if the frame is even worth the effort.

Yep, extinguishers aren't to put the car out, they're to put your b****cks out while you get out of your belts and the car.

Done the old KW twin-tube ones, I guess they're using the same internals?

Depends, a lot of those cheap units aren't worth bothering as you can't get the pistons and shims. Just seals and oil is generally easy so long as they're threaded and not welded though.

Rotherham? Unlucky. Oh wait.

I always use -4 on the wilwoods, you're pushing quite a bit of fluid in a short time, and if it returns slow you get a bit more clutch slip than you want.