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Rotherham, although it looks like someone is on it.

I'll see if someone has a gearlever and linkage locally I can buy/beg/borrow to work from.

Are they the same as a lot of other french setups, just have a pair of top hat brass bushes on the bottom? I used to make them for similar links on the MA boxes, I can take a look if they're they same I probably have some on the shelf, I used to have Oilite replacements for the bottom of the...

Yeah, I would have just lopped that entire corner out, rebuilt it panel by panel.

For me, personally, anything at all that has to be bent or flexed out to clean up, gets chopped out to thick, sound metal and replaced, you'll never get it quite back right because the metal stretches, especially when it's thin and corroded. The only exception is when I work on classics/vintage...

The entire point of graphene is you need to use it in huge, long, ordered sheets/chains to benefit from it's properties - that's why nobody is bothered about the natural amount in graphite. ;)

Yeah, but the graphene is just marketing, they're very careful what they say in the wording if you check it - it's like all these products that slap a bit of graphite in (which contains natural minute traces of graphene) - then slap the graphene word over it, it's dishonest and misleading at best.

I don't think I'd ever buy it just on the basis of the bullshit 'graphene' marketing push :D

They probably just slap patches over things for the MOT and that's it. Cut it back square to clean, sound metal. Make your life easy.

Yeah, endurance pads are really designed to be kept in a fairly tight temperature range - not too cold and not too hot - because outside of that range the lubricants in the pads don't work properly and you get a lot of wear, pickup, etc.

I use copper filled silicon too, apart from in front of cats/lambdas (it poisons them)

Slow the drill down, more pressure, touch the edges up any time they dull slightly, and use lube. Bog standard cheap HSS drills will go through almost anything if you stick to that. Personally I have a few cheap sets of HSS for most jobs and then a set of Clarkson-Osborne drills, tap drills and...

Yeah, I had the same on a few cars with them on, but some of the small engines with underfloor cats you had to block the damned exhaust with a rag and rev the tits off it to get them warm enough to even try to pass.

New toy, MIG/AC/DC TIG/MMA and pulse all in one machine. Seems pretty well screwed together for a Parwell, impressed, better than they used to be by a long way.

Every time I've seen one of their cats used it either barely scraped the MOT for a year and failed the year after, or had worse results than the old OE cat being removed....

For mine I just file a small chamfer on to stop them digging in when they're pushed in - some housings already have one, some don't for some reason.

Just to clear things up a little on the price, the material alone for those is £70-80 per kilo, they take hours each to make and they need 24+ hours annealing at high temperature afterwards - yes, there's a lot of cheap polyurethanes on the market for printing, they're also terrible quality...

Bit of an old one but v12 rally 205: And with a V16 Greatest? Maybe not, but you certainly don't forget hearing them. Like an RC car on crack. I was on the beach on the east coast when the Vulcan came back on it's last flight for landing - the guy came over the sea about 300ft up, lit the...

Kev obviously wanted a black pair and decided to DIY it :D

Small update, mounts will be available in a new material/resin shortly, it's microfoamed internally much like polyurethane bumpstops (or high end dashboard plastics with the soft touch surfaces) - which means the mounts now have more internal damping so I can lower the spring rate a little more...

I use nordlocks on anything vital

Be cheaper to buy new casings from AVO than have those prepped and rechromed tbfh, especially given you're going to want new seals, bearings and oil anyway.

Sticky piston, pads too tight in the the caliper sliders and binding when they warm up, calipers misaligned slightly on the mounts, air in the fluid applying a bit of drag when the brakes are warm, master cylinder not quite coming back far enough when the fluid is hot and causing brake drag (are...

Old post to reply to I know but since the thread is bumped - rolling a car is very easy indeed. I've seen people do it at not much more than walking pace with enough grip, more than once. You just need to clip the edge of a kerb or a dip on the apex. Ask my friend with his arm missing 'cause he...

That was the exhaust inserts :)

it's literally a clio shell slapped on a landy chassis.

I was charging 50 for the bushes or 65 already pressed into a mount ready to bolt on for a batch - I'll hold that price for one-offs until the material runs out

I can knock another up if you want one, I've got the material loaded atm, I don't have much left though.

I haven't been because the supplier I used to use for resin shut and everyone else I'd tried has been shite compared, apart from one that may work but it's a little softer so I need to tweak the designs. However the last few months I've been trialing some fancy stuff that microfoams as it's made...

Yeah, mine are 6082 aluminium inserts, you'd have to be going at the bolts like a monkey on steroids to worry 'em.