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Yeah, black are just oxide coated, they'll rust very quickly indeed outdoors or anywhere that has humidity. Buy zinc plated/bzp. Shop4fasteners are decent for odds and sods.

A little bit of hydraulic oil usually - stops you contaminating your hoses with silicone from WD40...

Camera position is crap, but like I said, the tree's are a lot closer at night :D

You can have all the torques you like, french tin + wall = wall wins.

It's a lot more fair than the Honda only having one gear when the YB has two. Given they have similar power they'll be geared for similar speeds. It's no longer engine RPM because you're putting it through gearing, so you're no longer talking either flywheel torque or engine rpm. But rather...

E.G - You give the Honda a 1st gear that's matched to the same road speed: It's a touch rough as I just did a quick paint edit, but close enough for examples. If you normalised graphs of wheel torque against road speed as is industry standard it'd be a lot simpler, but you've effectively got...

No, you made it a power plot as soon as you corrected to engine speeds, because now you've matched gearbox input speed between the two. Power is just torque x rpm after all. And as I said, you could run a 1st gear for the honda there too which would be just as impressive as it would then be...

And of course, that's using 2 gears to the honda's single one. Really you should just be comparing the Honda to the second gear figure. As obviously a previous gear in the honda to match the ~7k rev range of the YB would then mean the Honda would be just as fast or faster.

If you're using the rpms to correct for road speed/gearing, then that is the equivalent to bhp, so at some point the 2nd gear should coincide with or cross the honda line or vice versa. Here's a graph in your format using the figures from that Honda (the bottom end is scaled a bit from some 2.4...

It's pretty easy, one is making 400bhp, one is making 500bhp, so for a given road speed, the 500bhp one must be making more torque at the wheels. If they're both 500bhp peak then the graphs must converge/cross at some point. So what your graph is showing, I don't know. But it's not torque x...

That graph is all kinds of wrong.

I filled my brothers Rover with it when I welded all the sills up and even though it was parked on a steep driveway the damned stuff crept all the way up to the front and dripped out the drainage holes a day or two later. It's like a bad 70's horror movie.

S50 is a cavity wax, just stops further corrosion, it creeps and flows even after application so it tends to get into and coat everything, it's good stuff.

As @OssPoop says, Kev ordered a big batch to retail them, you can get them from the link above :) Haven't had any feedback on the prototype engine mounts yet but I still need to get a few out to the volunteers, haven't done much as I've had a few weeks ill.

@SWL16 Everything okay after the road trip?

Are you using a wheel? This game is a f**king oversteering complete b******d of a mess on a wheel. Fine on a controller.

Sounds like it's staying engaged and the engine rpms are killing it to me, as steve says, I'd be taking a very close look at that flywheel.

Great,thanks for posting a bit of feedback, much appreciated - happy with the NVH levels?

Great, how are you finding them otherwise? Always up for improvement suggestions :)

I would think as said above, a large washer and bolt in the end of that mount should stop it sliding out and would probably also stop it being pushed backwards out of the housing too? (although the washer being on the other side might still give it a shove) Is the centre bore quite tight on the...

I run them on unbeatable and you need to clear most of the pack within the first 30 seconds or so otherwise the front 2 will just run off while you get through traffic. Once you do it's easy, the AI is s**t.

Oh, the larger bushes have the same crenelations as the small bush does as well now - reduces the forces needed to insert the bush, and it's more tolerant of not being pushed in perfectly square: It also has a small taper lip on that side to help it self-centre when you're just starting to...

Sintofluid is known to have some issues with synchros - it damaged a lot of RX8 boxes when they used them there too. Even worse, if you switch to a new oil it'll take a while before the new oil cleans the remanents off the syncros. Total BV / Gear 8 is good for recaltricent french boxes, or...

It's pretty entertaining, although the controls are weird - cars are far easier to catch if you use a keyboard or gamepad over a wheel - like the game alters the handling depending on what you're using. Gamertag is MadBuggyofDoom - although I'm not usually on till late on at night/early morning,

They're replacement bushes for an OE housing, as per the Powerflex offerings, but should be far less harsh than either are, especially for idle vibrations. No issues with overtorquing/distorting the aluminium centres either.

Yes, I wouldn't mind still running a back to back against the stiff one you're running at some point, if we ever manage to catch each other :D Probably should start a new thread for the engine mounts...

Right, I've got my parts on their way back from the TCT show now, which means I'll have four complete dogbones with bushes and inserts already fitted, ready to bolt on available to go. If anyone wants to try these pre-production ones, PM me, obviously being early adopters I'd like to recieve...

My mates there with his safari racers and says the tarmac is more slippery than the grass :D

Haven't forgot about you, just been busy :) I'll sort the insert tommorow and drop one in the post.

Bead width, wheel itself is usually about 1/2" wider.