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Buy a couple of bigger, old Records - the old ones are far better made. We've got two number 6's - A normal one and one with the square engineering jaws. That No 6 is about 30 years old and I've beat stuff in that with a sledgehammer and it's never flinched: Same with this old beast...

Nope, not even in the racers and they get serious gearbox abuse and are only changed once a year. Black suggests either contaminants getting in somewhere or wear metals really - could be oil overheating but that's only likely if you've gone with a too-thick oil for the 'box. have you tried...

I don't disagree there either - but I do find it amusing that people insult others for watching something on twitch when in all likelyhood they spend two hours watching some overpaid tarts kick a pigskin around on some grass on the TV...

You're not really going to catch it with anything once it's fitted though? And the brake heat should cure it with a few cycles...

I'd be reluctant to take it over 80c unless I knew the exact spec of the magnetic encoder - chances are it's a high temperature one that will do 120c, but you never know....

Most common plastics/rubbers will be in trouble by about 110-120c, the grease will be struggling too if you go much higher if they're pre-lubed cassette bearings. The other issue is most permanent magnets will loose their magnetism somewhere between 80-120c.

It's no different to watching the TV tbfh.

Yes, I'm loving it, it's different but it still feels like Metro.

Well, not mine, but a friend brought some dampers up hoping I'd take a look at them 'cause they were running hot.... Yeah, that's cause half of Wales is inside them....the oil is supposed to be transparent red.... :D I think I've salvaged the remotes and hoses and that's about it....

I just did mine in the car on the Pug, lots of wearing working through about a 3" gap! :D I never realised how tiny the clio alternator is compared though, might be a nice lightweight upgrade...

Probably just 2 x M12 penny/repair washers?

Put a nut over them, weld straight down the middle with a LOT of power on - the welding heat will likely crack the corrosion holding them in as well.

RAM heatsinks are usually small enough to fit in odd places - I always use them on ignition coils to give them a bit more cooling in race conditions.

That sounded like a loose heatshield the way you described it before. I've just finished turning up the alloy inserts for the small batch of engine mounts so hopefully will get some more feedback on those shortly, I'll start another thread for those though.

Good, can you throw them in mine? :D

You won't pick up the right spot for the start of the thread. I'd either try to get a pick in there and fold the thin wall inwards if you can, or if not, maybe just drill it out and tap it to take one of the Wilwood 2-piece brake nipples (big brass fitting with steel nipple in the centre for...

Are they? That seems like a pretty daft idea if they are, every brembo I've seen have been steel or brass.

It won't touch the alloy, just eat the steel nipple out, it takes about a day per nipple though even with power running through to speed it up (IIRC I used about 1 amp)

I did, but it looked like the updated OE ones were working fine for most people - and to be honest they look better than the poly alternative I've seen with them having steel inserts around the hanger, etc. If it's something people still have trouble with I can take another look at them though.

You can burn them out with battery acid but it takes a while - I had to do it with my Pug ones when the pad slider bolts were siezed in:

The exhaust mounts are, yes, everyone's been happy with them as far as I'm aware. I was meaning the engine/dogbone mounts that I was working on towards the end of last year - I should have specified or maybe made a new thread really :D

Been a bit quiet on this front - however, I've a nearby neighbour bought a Clio, so I stuck one on his at Christmas to see how it faired - no problems and everything's been great, he's really happy with it (it had some cheap orange polybushes in there that were driving him mad), fit seems spot...

If you work the crease line back out first, go slowly with a softwood or rubber edge, the rest will probably just come out with it.

It's generally when you have one side on ice or in deeper snow than the other that causes issues with a Torsen, torque imbalances rather than just outright lack of grip. You can leave 11's in the snow with an open diff too so long as it's fairly even.

As an aside to the above, if you do have a Torsen fitted, and you're struggling in the snow, as the torque ratio is a >1 multiplier - if you are just spinning one wheel you can often gain more traction by braking slightly to give load up the diff and give it some force to work against. I do the...

A Quaiffe/gear diff will generally only be able to bias about 3x the torque of the least loaded wheel - this is why they struggle to transmit power on gravel, snow, etc - or if your tyres are so sticky that the inside wheel is unloaded/you take a lot of kerb. There is a difference depending on...

As said. it's the first one, upper strut mount to balljoint, your kinematics are always to pivot points.

ACF50 will soak into the black oxide because it's porous - part of the reason it's not recommended to use outdoors without regular maintainance as it holds water and corrodes - black oxided guns used to be strip and re-oiled every single time they were used outdoors for example as even your...

It's basically just a degass at elevated temperatures, all 12.9/14.9 bolts should have gone through it from the factory anyway, anything under that doesn't matter as it's not an issue, almost any plating place will do that for you on high tensile steel - I have loads of bolts re-plated, anything...

Black oxide bolts won't last a weekend before they're corroded on mine. OEM's use 10.9's instead of 12.9s if they can because they don't suffer as much from stress corrosion cracking, but they're still all zinc plated.