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Better, they're one of the new siloxane/ceramic range. Think DS1.11, Carbotech XP8, etc.

Heat generally increases clearances in a CV joint, so not really that much of an issue, any slop at all however will result in a slide hammer effect pushing grease away from the services and brinelling the surfaces, much more so than a tight joint where it's at least trying to maintain a mixed...

I'd take a tight CV joint over a loose one any day of the week.

No idea why it posted that in here, was for the driveshaft thread!

I'd take a tight CV joint over a loose one any day of the week.

Why would you send a refurbed shaft back because it's not as good quality and then buy a J&R anyway? :D

There used to be one at Chatsworth until they started the renovations - I had a blast around the track there after the show, was great fun. They've finished most of the work though now and it sounds like they're on with getting some shows back in there, so hopefully they'll bring it back

A pressure wash and spray it with enamel seems par for most reconditioner's these days tbfh....

Hello, I also have a Beetle. Well, some of one. There's at least a kilo or two of it left anyway.

The zircotech/nimbus stuff is quite pricey - the expanded aluminium/ceramic stuff. Best bet is just to nip to a scrapyard and rip it off the underside of anything newish - most modern cars have metres of the stuff underneath, they're covered in it, and the scrapyards usually just throw it ?

Looks like an old procomp?

Depends where you put it....

Figured out why the throttle response has been a bit sluggish for a few days on the Pug.... Thats gonna require a lot of duct tape

Ping me your address and I'll send you one of the small end bushes. Insert might be a little rough as the lathe is tied up atm so it'll be angle grinder, but will do the job :D

Sounds more like a pnuematic road drill :D

Have to try this prototype after I've checked it on Oss's car, see what you think, it'll cope with diesel torque no issue and I'd guess take the vast majority of that idle vibe out.

It's a bit off when you're measuring your vibrator in horsepower though.

You've got solid poly mounts on a diesel? Ouch :D

Okay, @dCi_rep sent me a nice pack full of used mounts this morning, which I've cleaned up and measured up - the good news is, the sizes are all well within what the bush design will cope with for preload variation, so I don't need to make any changes. In fact I could probably slacken things off...

Yes, those - if the input and output are at the same angle to each other the joints should be aligned 90* to each other, but other than that the phasing depends on what angle the respective shafts are to each other from the steering wheel to the rack input.

For those that get motion sickness - and it's very common with navs, even people that are normally fine, trying to read pace notes in a race car flat out is terrible - one, make sure you keep hydrated, even a little bit low on water and your balance will start to go in the car, and two, eat a...

Nobody can really give you one bar what's given above, your own driving style can alter the tyre temperatures more than even changing cars might. Same with the tyres themselves. Some of my front tyres run 8psi cold, some of them 18psi cold, at the same place.

The screw adjuster for the handbrake floats in the housing - it can always get pushed out without rotating, but not vice versa.

Just don't use one with a balljoint in the middle and you'll be fine.

Right, got everything where I'm happy, bar a few tweaks I want to make for ease of fitting + cosmetics. poly both ends now, oversized aluminium inserts similar to the OE bush, to spread the stress over a wide area on the polyurethane and also allow for full bolt clamping torque just the same as...

I'd be checking the UJ's and a good look around the balljoints and TRE's first.

Yes, you can. If you have a solid beam axle, or a single link system, or something like the Triumph rear ends with insane camber change. None of which is applicable to the front of a clio.

I've got a 10t and a 20t and sometimes the 10 just isn't enough.

Here's a quick strut with the camber gain/loss taken out for simplicity: And here's the same setup with 100mm(!) spacers in, note the motion ratio. Now, of course, a real setup has camber loss and gain, which affects things a little from jacking against the wishbone and damper - but to...

You're not fitting longer wishbones. You're fitting spacers, which aren't part of your pivot. They're outside of your pivot, the pivots are the bottom balljoint and the top mount. All the spacers do is increase the leverage the hub exerts laterally on the wishbone and strut, trying to bend it...