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I may not have read your post properly sorry.
Claying removes both LSP and bonded contaminates. Your paintwork should be "Bare" so to speak once youre done.
If you were to wash the car, or soak it in G101, it would most likely remove the LSP or certainly after a few applications depending...
Just clay it.
Polishing will remove LSP anyway. But if youre machine polishing why not clay it anyway? Surely thats a no brainer, dirt transfer on the pads?
Lol. Im 22, at uni. I dont run a sport. And I dont know how people in my situation manage it without giving up their social lives.
I run a GT, which is apparantly s**t, and I (apparantly) shouldnt have bought it for £11.5K cash. As I could have been running a 197 for that price. Yeah. Great...
Can you stretch?
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-machines/das-6-pro-dual-action-polisher/das-6-pro-sonus-and-menzerna-kit/prod_677.html
If not, get the DAS6, or DAS6 Pro would be better, a backing plate, Chem Guys Green Waffle pad and Menz 203s/Power Finish. Good 1 step combo. Only...
Ok.
Im going to bite my tongue as last time I didnt I got banned. Its Sunday night pal give me a break, I work 2 jobs and go to uni.
How very DARE you.
Id go with DA so;
You can practice with minimal risk.
Youve got one in future when you finally move to rotary, and you come across a mates car like a Clio for example with soft paintwork, where a DA will be more than ample. And plastic pannels.
Rotarys have a habbit of burning paint if youre...
no, just spray the pannel and clay, and keep it well lubed. Rub back and forth.
Shampoo and water will do the job, although you can just wipe with a plush cloth and dry the pannel when using a QD.
Do you want to polish, glaze and wax?
Really liked the wheels when I first saw them a few years back. but now I dont like them.
Great cars though, if they sill made them id consider one as my next car, same as yours but without the wheels. Great engine and gearbox.
Erm. It doesnt lol. Dust is dust mate you cant escpate the peril of it.
Dust is like Gally, its always there, and it comes and rapes you when you dont expect it.
Just a sealant at the end of the day. It looks good, adds gloss, helps flake ping so to speak and makes washing/drying easier.
Wash, dry, spray on pannel, wipe with clean dry F cloth, turn cloth and buff..
Z8 adds protection. If you walk round a car with bare paintwork itll last the best part of 2 months.
I really urge you tro try M135 mate. Needs an extra wipe down once its been buffed just to get it right, which in my experience Z8 doesnt require. But its cheap, durable and looks good. Seriously I doubt you could tell the difference.
Doesnt blow my horn really. Not going to play multiplayer as Im sick of playing against people who hack and little kids. And people who are better than me.
Graphics doesnt look amazing really. Reminds of of a game made by EA a bit like MOH.
I did. Believbe me it didnt work. Only once we got the big f**k off stilton on it did it start to move. Became easy once we got halfway down the coils.
Now to get my car set up again, pulls to the left, and the steering wheel is off to the right.
They were put on in Jan 2010
Ive not maintained them so its my own fault, but Id rarther not have to pay for the strut to be removed, and have the adjuster ring sawn off, and then have the geometry set up.
Like I said, only thing ive not tried is freezing and burning but I cant see how...
I think im going to need to make a habbit of doing this! Take my wheels of and detail those while IM at it.
I never sprayed them down with waxoyl or copper grease unfortunately and a year later when I first adjusted them they were a pig to do.
Managed to get them all the way down and then...