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Normally needs 2 or 3 clean starts and the light will go out.

Will need paint. You may get somewhere with touch up painting and wet sanding but being metallic you will struggle to get it sorted as easily as you would a flat colour. The problem with deep marks like that is being able to build the paint up proud of the damage they look quite seep. :(...

Lots depends on the car colour as to how much they show up. I have yet to see any paint protection film that does not stand out.

Dirty bloody 106's ... I am getting a pre 2001 Ferrari and paying cheaper tax than a 182 owner lol Dirty old cars FTW

Modern metallic clearcoated cars, very little. Any decent bodyshop will have a range of paint chips to get the best possible match though.

They did not make many, year or two's production as the Phase 1 GTi 6 soon came along.

S16 had a engine out of the late model 405 Mi 16's - 155 brake opposed to 167 and a 5 speed box.

Ignore book figures for old Pugs, they always unlike other manufactures tested with Half Payloads to keep insurance groups down lol

1999- With the coming of 206 GTI 138, worst Pug ever to where the GTI badge, things just got worse and worse.

The Glaze won't really work in that routine. The order of the rest is correct. I would look at a product to actually polish you paint though at the start of the process. This is why I prefer the AG SRP to the Carlack/Klass AIO as it polishes as well as cleans up the paintwork first.

They are one piece from the factory. No join means it is on its original system. ( Rotting under the paint though hey Paul ;) )

Would not do it for less than 10 quid and hour plus the cost of the products. Wash, polish and wax by hand is 50 quid minimum.

lol @ the 6 banter. I guess people man off over the same reasons as the Vee Ali! I would not buy one though.

Not really cost me £120 for a front bumper to be painted and the colour match was spot on, tbh I kept cost don be removing and refitting it myself, but it will be better than any local blow in.

To heavy Dan ;)

As long as the paint is not damaged and it is not in an area where the panel is bonded to a strengthening area all should be good.

Shampoo - Duragloss Wash Polish - AG Super Resin Wax - P222, Vics Concours or Swissvax Onyx depending on budget Sealant - Werkstat Acrylic Jett Trigger Glaze - Wont really fir in the above routine easily - Megs Show Car Glaze #7 Quick Detail Spray - Britemax QD or Sonus Carnauba Spritz

Looks like it does the trick, I was worried about how harsh the AG TFR would be nest, but it shifted the grime and left the areas look glossy. Shame I have a funny coloured drive now !

lol - I did a bit more under mine at the weekend. 60Ks worth of grime comes of easily with neat TFR, shame there is rusty bits under it!

Rustys thunder has just been hijacked ! Better colour and cleaner underneath, tears before bedtime Paul ? lol

Wish it was a nice evening here. You braved the badge removal then Rusty. What's all that muck on the wheel spoke inners ? Less time painting more time scrubbing required ;)

Kev Hicks - Dent Removal - 07836 534538

The clay will just remove whatever sealants or waxes you have on the paint ready to start again.

Looks good - sounds expensive though, bodyshop should be less than that to paint the whole valance.

Stone chips :(

Swindon area - never did any work on my 182, but will be doing my 106 and he got my old Concours car perfect.

Did you speak to Kev, even if you have to drive down to him, I am pretty sure it will still save you money that getting anyone local to do it. I used to pay Dents Plus 80 odd quid plus vat a panel, Have spent less than that and got a whole car done with Kev.

I heard he was wrapping it in tin foil for more shine ...

Plus cash too surely ?

Loony, Kissyfur and Timmy all the 3 man sluts in the same thread ...