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Have you only put the top right insert in and not changed any of the other mounts? If so then the new upper right will show weakness in the other mounts. I powerflexed my dogbone and replaced the upper right and it's perfect to be honest

I love my eibatch speedlines but I do wish I'd gone for the HR due to their supposed longer life

Not sure if a 1.2 is a similar set Up to a 172 but when I changed my outer bushes both of bolts were seized and snapped off anyway lol

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Yeh not for too long though as the water pump won't be running

Probably lol. The bolts for mine were rusted to hell so gave up lol

I think the genuine ones are SNR

Fatty. Job done

Could be. Just because it's working doesn't means it's working correctly.

Injector

172 Cup shocks are slightly stiffer but fit fine. Arms are the same. Have you checked the damper is defiantly bent? I can't see how a shock could get bent without causing some serious damage to the arms or subframe in a nick big enough to bend something

It's the same engine so not sure why one would be stronger than the other. Phase 1 172s use a cable throttle but other than that I'm pretty sure they are the same block.

Maybe consider eibatch prolines then. They don't really lower the car but if your refreshing it then at least you won't have to worry about a snapped spring or any of the front end for a few years. Genuine springs are expensive to replace individually.

If thats where the noise is coming from then yeh. You don't have to change the clutch you can just change the bearing but you'd be daft to have the box off and not do the clutch. 80k is young for a clutch on one of these h Unless it's been abused

Don't think so. It just slots in and sits behind the bearing. Clutch cable been a little slack might cause the fork the resonate a little more.

If it is the fork then it's probably just a little looser in its housing than it used to be so is vibrating on the gearbox. It might not be that but it's worth checking if the rattle goes away when you press the clutch down. It could be the release bearing rattling while there is no pressure...

If it is the fork then it's probably just a little looser in its housing than it used to be so is vibrating on the gearbox. It might not be that but it's worth checking if the rattle goes away when you press the clutch down. It could be the release bearing rattling while there is no pressure...

It's not the fork vibrating around the gearbox is It? Take the cable off the fork and lightly put your finger on it and see if the vibration is still there

Recently got my 172 on the hunter system after quite a few changes to the front end. The rear left last year was a degree out on the toe so I rectified this using a shim from pure motorsport but I think I may have gone too far. From the attached the rear left wants an extra camber shim in...

Can't you just take the inlet off again and turn the bolt out with some pliars?

Just polybushed the arms on my 172. Can't say as I've noticed much difference to be honest

My old 182 got stuck in 5th once. I managed to get it into neutral on the selector arm using a hammer and screwdrivers and it was perfectly fine for another 2 years until I sold it! Strange things

I saw that but it said gl5 which apparently is no good for the jc5. So i went with the 75w80 gl4 mineral. @bloke when you say mineral will be ok do you mean will be ok to get me by till I can get some good stuff in? Or should it be ok? Car rarely gets trashed and never tracked

Nah I think it's just the map the car runs when cold makes it run really rough for the first few minutes. Probably all to do with EU emissions laws or something. Rs tuner remap settles it down a little.

Pretty standard for a 172 mate. Remap does solve it a little

Mine failed first time round, told him to get it stinking red hot and try again. Passed with flying colours instantly.

Speak to bloke about it, but I think most people would fit cams at the same time as the belts for very little extra. 197 cams seem to be getting high 180s with very little mods. Could be blokes super duper secret timing which helps out though ;)

I don't mind paying for something half decent if it's correct. I can only see one 75 80 on eurocarparts but it's mineral oil

So long story short I was changing my wishbones to ones with pms stiffening plates and poly bushes. Ns driveshaft came apart and pissed oil everywhere. I need the car tomorrow. What oils would you recommend that can be got off the shelf in halfords, ecp? I'd normally use elf but nowhere...

Around 250 for mapping and probably the same again for the 197 cams