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Any garage should be able to do it mate it's really simple. It's getting them set up where you might need a pro.

Scrubs up well

I read somewhere that 20bhp can be got from a remap on these but the injectors are a limiting factor. Exhaust and Intake will probably gain you just noise rather than any power.

Looks easy enough. I've just read it's a biatch to get the clamps back on. Access to the bolts looks tight on the miners aswel

172 cup shocks will fit. 182 cup won't The cup springs are silly prices. Be better off using eibatch pro or sportline if you want a bit lower

You need either the correct tool to release the tension or a jubilee clip around the spring to relieve the tension. Or just cut the belt off and replace with a new one if it's been rubbing. It's fiddly to remove, easiest way is to remove bumper and slam panel to gain more access. Tensioner is...

Is it a genuine tensioner? Mine is close but doesn't touch I've seen a couple of threads where the spring had bent causing it to foul the belt. Take it off and have a check

When's the belt due?

Stick a fatty on it! Noise without any power loss

Nope

609745001 cheap ones 609745000 slightly dearer ones

Ah right. Yeh they list 2, the most expensive of the 2 been 12 quid a pair with weekend discount so worth a try. If they don't fit I'll take em back an have another go at cleaning

Cool will try and clean them again. I take it the bearings from euros won't fit?

I gave that a go. Blasted them out for ages and they still feel gritty as hell as though the bearings have flat spots on them. Unless I didn't clean them well enough lol.

Hi guys. I need some new top strut bearings, mounts are fine but the bearings are grating badly. Will the ones from Euro car parts fit? As I know these things can be a bugger with some non genuine parts.

Not sure I even understand the question. Are you running itbs or an rs2 or something? Can hardly even see my leads on my stock engine.

Not sure I understand, Or are you taking the Michael? It did genuinely happen lol, AA toed me home so I could prepare to get the box off so thought I'd got nothing to loose messing with a hammer and it sorted it.

A few years ago my 182 box got stuck in 5th. Got under the car and the selector was stuck up or down (Can't remember where 5th is) I had to prize it down with a bar, tapped it up again with a hammer and all was good again until I flogged it a few years later. No idea what happened, but...

My ktec stealth doesn't knock but it's just not stealth at all lol. Re adjusted the band but I just can't get the exhaust to be stealth, it's so annoying. The tail pipe hangs about and inch below the bumper. Next step is a powerflex mount but I didn't really want to do it as I read they cause...

Can't you just take the cover off? The wheels will have centre caps anyway so nothing will get in I wouldn't have thought

Rear beam bushes?

for the sake of a 20 quid belt id probz just swap it out for piece of mind if it does look really bad, but like bloke said the ribs on the inside do tend to crack because they go back on themselves on certain pulleys

Have a look with the engine running. If the belt is clearly slipping over the alternator pulley and not turning the alternator then that's probably your issue. Can't see it myself though, if the belt was that loose then you'd probably have PAS issues and a squeaky belt. If it looks to be...

I didn't touch the subframe when I changed my clutch.

Coincidence. Only way the bolt would stop it working is if the alternator wasn't turning due to slack in the belt.

Fit it and enjoy the extra noise. Unplug and fit a bolt in place of the rear lambda, or fit the rear lambda. Either way the chances are you will get the elm light After I remapped with rs tuner I never saw the light again. But before that it would come on every now and again

Did you try what I said? Symptoms and noise don't sound dephaser related to me.

Put the front bolt in first and then give the engine a little rock until you can get the rear upward bolt in.

There's a small computer chip inside the resistor pack. If bridging the wires fires it up then it's worth trying a new chip It costs about 3 quid from a electronics site and is dead easy to solder on. I did mine a few months ago and it's been perfect ever since

Not pikey at all, I would always suggest sanding to fresh metal and securing with a nut and bolt. Then hammerite from the underside once secure.