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take the belt off and check all the pulleys Start the car without the belt on and see if the noise is still there, if it is then its something more serious.

Pretty much the same answer unless you've got real deep pockets

Is that all there is to it? Same belt? Any specific pulley people use?

Is that some sort of home made ac delete kit? Looks pretty good

Have you had a look round the scrappys? I got a genuine 182 cat from motorhog for 60 quid as the non genuine item which was fitted to it just could not pass an MOT

Yep, all the guides I read was to jack the engine and get a socket through the access hole. I found that method impossible. A deep offset 13mm spanner did the trick.

It would be easy if it wasn't so tight. Used an 8mm Allen key with an extension for the main bolt. Had to jack the engine to get an e12 socket on the top bolt through the access hole Then the bottom pulley noatter how or where I jacked the engine the access hole was useless so ended up...

well, its done. Whats an absolute pig of a job.

My aux kit arrived today and I've just got a few questions. Will I need to take off the pas pump pulley to get the tensioner out? If yes do I need to use loctite when I put em back in? In the pack I got 2 washers. 1 large one and 1 thin one with teeth in it. Where do these go? Will a 3/8...

Did mine with the engine in and subframe up, plenty of space if you shift the Ecu and radiator out the way.

What problems is it giving you? I ran my 182 for years with no rear lambda. No eml either but it was mapped with rs tuner

Hi guys. My aux belt is due soon and I'm stuck between either getting a pms ac delete kit or just using a standard Renault aux kit. I never use the ac anyway as it needs re gassing. Are there any reliability issues with the pms kit?

Rear lambda doesn't do anything fueling wise. Do you redline it everywhere you go? What mpg do you get on the motorway at 70? Anything less than 40 would be worrying.

It won't give a false reading, it will just be genuinely running cooler than it should be. Faulty temp sensor could give a false reading though

I recently had a similar problem, and what finally made me change the lambda was mpg dropping from 42 on the motorway to 31. Changed it at the weekend for a new Bosch unit from europarts and its back up to 42-44 on the motorway. I paid 51 quid with a mates trade discount but if you put the...

New alternator and now dead battery...

I take it if you remove the top rubber too then they just fall in and out?

For Anybody with a similar issue the front lambda was goosed

Bloke, when you say remove all the old rubber apart from the top do you mean literally all of it until its bare metal and then at the top there will still be a mm or so of original rubber? Any issues with these fitted? Extra noise isn't an issue but I'm finding it impossible to get my ktec...

Wrap it around the tensioner and tighten it until the belt is slack. Or get the proper tool to fit the tensioner and use that to take off the tension Slam panel off also

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/J-R-CV-JOINTS-DRIVESHAFTS Apparently these are pretty good

So today on my normal commute to work I came to a stop and dropped the clutch and the engine dropped to about 300rmp so I blipped the throttle and it came back to life. Car pulls fine and there's no smoke or anything but the idle is pretty bad, seems worse than my old 182. Checked The fault...

I can't see 25k old oil been a problem to be fair. I would have thought its a linkage issue but it could well be a premature box failure if its had a hard life

Might be worth getting the correct top mounts and bearings. I believe the spacer is a mod which somebody made to stop the strut knocking on full lock.

Bumper and slam panel off to gain access. No special tools are needed but yeh I would change the aux belt and tensioner while your at it. I use the pikey method and put a jubilee clip around the tensioner. But it does have a socket for a square drive to do it properly. Can't remember the size...

Not bad. Did you have R S lower inlets?

Do you mean the Clip holding the CV boot on? Picture?

Unless your desperate for the cash I'd store it. Youl only want another in a few years time if not lol

Thanks mate. Is that the correct way then? I have seen similar videos where they make the string actually touch the rear tyre.

Has anybody ever successfully set the toe using the string method? It pains me to pay 40 quid for a hunter alignment when I could possibly do it myself. What is the correct way to do it? My basic understanding was. 4 Axel stands with a bit of string between front and rear. Place rear one...