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how much of a gap can you see between the top mount's buffers and the metalwork? the engine mounts are all pap and lots of people have found they benefit from renewal

aye, they're not genuine parts (unlike those in Jonff's pic)

belts should cost you around £3-400 on a Cup, if you shop around. 2.8 for a '53?

that does seem cheap for a late one, but i'm not up on what the books are saying at the moment. have you had a look in Parkers, etc?

it's a nylock nut, so it'll not spin off freely but you could wire brush the exposed threads, which'll help after having removed it, the taper may have re-engaged in the hub and you might need to knock the pin out with a hammer. if it's particularly tight, put the nut back on a few turns and...

how much gear oil is there in it? worn mounts will produce powerplant movement, which will stress and wear the gearbox oil seals for the components that leave the box and are 'fixed' to other parts of the car - ie. driveshaft/selector shaft seals. i'd drain the oil (and note how much comes out...

huge, huge amount of work going into your restoration NJ - any timescale in mind, or is it an 'as and when' affair?

i suppose you could (extend?) and flatten the ends of the bar, drill them, rig up upper mounting brackets, and then fit rose jointed drop links - but it does sound like a fair amount of work..

but everyone else is talking about the inner bushes? ed. hang on - correcting myself; thought you could only poly the inner bushes, but can see that outers are also available. apols

if it's the fronts, try dismantling the sliders, cleaning and regreasing. check the pistons are OK as well (will need to draw some fluid off from the res)

have you had it up in the air to spin the wheels? they should spin it's worth taking it out and giving the brakes a hard time to see if that helps first. i'd use penetrating oil to free up the piston and clean and regrease (moly) the handbrake mech if that's also suspect

corrosion/gum on the discs/pads won't help, but shouldn't bind badly. the type of caliper used on the back does have a reputation for eventually giving sticky piston/handbrake mech problems, but you can attempt to free things up with suitable lubes

think that's a must-do if you want them to last much longer than a few months. did mine again in the week - 10min job - should hopefully last a good deal longer than an unsupported mount; something along these lines anyway -

how/why would you replace a bar bush with a rosejoint? (i don't know) i've no experience of the replacing the Clio's inner bushes for poly, but there is opinion on search - some suggestions that it affects understeer; they're (even) more difficult to fit than the OE bushes; the OE rubber ones...

some cars are OE fitted with poly bushes in some of their suspension components

black one? on fire?

believe it's just a 3ohm resistor http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=407757&highlight=3+ohm

a few will spring up if you UK Google, but these guys are apparently the UK importers: http://www.ccs-inc.co.uk/

hope it's not too complicated - would offer to have a little look if you were closer

are you able to work on the car yourself? personally, would start by checking the 'external' joints for any play (2 x U/J in column, track rod ends; track rods), then start worrying about the rack itself (or the PAS system). if you're not able to yourself, think your best bet is in taking it...

parts/labour-wise, no-where near as big a job as the gearbox itself. it's worth considering before spending big money/throwing in the towel, anyway. could also enquire about clutch adjustment; not heard that mentioned as a factor though

catchy synchros is a rebuild/new box job, really. it's (seemingly) not all that uncommon though. change the oil for a 75/80 GL5 spec to start with, to see if that helps at all. it's very easy to do DIY, so a mechanic won't charge a deal if you can't yourself. 3l good fluid - about £30; half an...

don't have to drop the subframe to do it on a Cup, but the RS workshop manual does tell you to; not sure if it's more complicated with the non-Cups. someone posted a horror-story about their column U/J a little while ago and it's worth checking for play in those (and the track rod ends/track...

you'd need to check (or have it checked) to see where it's coming from - there are may be a dozen possible causes and lots of methods you could use to help diagnose, but i'd start by checking the bottom arm balljoint

sh*t! omg! *run* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCp371qSddI&feature=related

10mins of w&d + paint would presumably sort it for a little while. one thing though - not sure if the pipes are plastic coated or painted - which may be a consideration if you're going to abrade them

it won't be a fail until it's fairly well gone (unless your tester's 'special'). if it's just a small area and you're worried, could clean and paint - although they will all rust eventually

this doesn't really help in any way, but Powerflex bushes come supplied with copper grease - although i always thought it was abrasive?

you can barely see them in this photo, but they go on the front: http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=1485

i know you have been and must be tempted to continue, but i'd really not use it if it's leaking fuel like that