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it wouldn't turn me off if it had been done properly - lots seem to grumble about Renault techs but, tbh, they're not all that likely to have bodged it (!) - and there'll be a warranty on the job as well

see if anyone on here has access to the parts computer (or pop in to Renault yourself) - might give you an image of the parts

sounds pretty good, really. would obviously want to inspect before commiting but, providing the mods/history don't bother you, can't see an obvious problem

i've not dismantled mine, but wonder if you're missing some sort of seal?

are these just the same flimsy plastic lines/unions that are fitted to the RS? personally, i'd look to replace the whole line for peace of mind. you might be able to bodge something, but the plastics don't look all that sturdy on mine, so not sure it'd be worth the risk

you could, but you'd need to put a resistor in the plug for the P/T, otherwise (once you've had the airbag ECU reset) the system will recognise that the P/T's not connected and will illuminate the airbag warning lamp

could also be the thermostat as, if it's stuck shut, water won't be flowing through the rad, and the fan won't be any the wiser. does your top rad hose get very hot whilst it's overheating?

both models are fitted with either of two different reels - either pre-tensioned (with the purple lead), or non-pre-tensioned (it's not a Cup/non-Cup difference - just depends which type was fitted to either model) ed. they're the same across the Clio2 range by the way - doesn't need to come...

it was veiled, but he was lucky with the lay of the track there. people do under and over-take whilst racing!

pretty spectacular. might have looked a little different had they been entering a lefthander tho!?

there's this workshop manual (hosted by Fastchip): http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf

guess it depends upon how bad it is, but i think most would probably look at using very fine wet&dry (2000-3000) to flat the overspray, then machine polish to remove the resultant scratching. depending upon how much area's affected and how bad it is, it might not be that big of a job - just need...

if it's overspray, aren't you looking at having to flat it back and then machine polish?

there are a few things that, despite the outward appearance of any car, will probably need doing regularly in my experience (so far). unless the owner's recently renewed the engine mounts and the top mounts, it'll benefit from those. think i'm looking at renewing my top mounts again, after about...

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=scrutineers+delight another source - any motorsports outfit will sell those sticker sheets

i declared mine - and you might not be penalised for it. a lot of insurers use a % power increase factor - so, if the swap doesn't increase the power (which it doesn't), they're not bothered. in your opening gambit, just explain that the OE exhausts don't last and that you're fitting a stainless...

it's an interesting subject and tend to agree with the age comment. i fiddled with my first car endlessly throughout my late teens/early twenties, and vowed never to do it again - it's a lad's hobby, but it's such a waste of money. since, have only gone for good 'out of the box' cars, but have...

ladies! welcome to the OP by the way. you need to read between the lines - you'll get used to it:)

was thinking that. P1 - OP's P2 - insurance P3 - motorbikes :clown:

A unscrews from B (which is fixed - there should be flats on it for a spanner to stop it turning whilst you undo A)

i did, but binned it. they're £20 each btw think it was quoted in a recent thread; couple of weeks ago; was started by either Inferno or fubar

if you've already got reservations about the on-paper-spec, thing to do is to drive a few of each to see if you feel that whatever difference you can tell is worth the compromise. everyone has an opinion, but it's based on their own perceptions, and might not be as your own. there were a...

^that's it. guessing that you've not been able to fully tighten the spindle into the bottom nut as the mount was in place. hopefully that'll solve things, as a loose spindle will cause vibration

hmm.. can only think that the bottom nut's not tight enough if you can turn the spindle whilst tightening the top nut. it's an irritating design hang on a minute - are you saying that you assembled the mount onto the spindle, then screwed it into the lower nut? there's a flat on the spindle...

the spindle shouldn't spin as you tighten the nut on the upper gearbox mount. when you said you removed the spindle, did you have to undo a nut from underneath to get it off?

:dapprove: it has done you well though, esp. considering the use it gets what's the diagnosis? has something misaligned within the box?

isn't this test just a part of a series that EVO used to use to rate cars? i think they had a time-exposed-to-danger overtaking one and a lap of a circuit, amongst others - then they'd tot it all up and score the car the slalom one might give you an idea of how handy a car might be in an...

ah, right. don't have one of those on mine (may be they were taken off the Cups? what is it anyway?) presumably it can't be the problem if others don't have them/have removed them without experiencing issues

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what's up? sorry. just spotted other thread