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Says the man in a Clio with a bright blue body kit ;)

How much, legality of them, where from etc?

Clearly spoke too soon...

Troof yoof. I'm starving. @Waitey no selling this until we've booze cruised.

Pipe down Mr "posts every evening meal he's ever cooked Bex".

Wow, @Waitey got old... how's that mortgage and engagement ring working out for you? x

For all those with a handy air supply ;)

God knows what you lot trample into your mats! As @Cliotoby has said is the only method I've found works 100%, or as close to as poss.

I'm not really adding much here, Ant, but classic filler foul. Your wash and dry process is just fine. Me thinks you've been taken for a ride sadly. Wishing you well with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you a retired architect? Love the colour, but agree with DocRollo, it does look chavvy with the canards etc.

I can understand if it has sentiMENTAL value. But it's a Clio. Spend the money on something memorable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found I couldn't gauge the amount coming out properly and thus couldn't work out how much I'd applied in which area. Makeup pads had X number of dabs against the product I'm using and that gets me closer to guaranteeing even coverage.

Yes. It's not quite as revolutionary as you'd hope, sadly. I'd stick to makeup pads.

Rim wax is useless. PBWS is an old favourite and the smell is just divine. AFMR is highly regarded. Megs I don't know. However, they are all products that don't need a lot of prep (a good thing) but will need reapplying every 3-6 months, depending on car use.

Not really - your bodywork won't experience the same temperatures your wheels are exposed to.

G5 is the glass and perspex treatment ;) C5 or CarPro DLUX are good shouts. If you feel you need to add something on top of this, you'll (as you've already suggested) need a high temp sealant. No better than fk1000p.

That's a nice idea actually, cheers.

Which one, Scott?

I thought the difference was that one is pre-mixed and ready to spray, the other needs mixing to the correct ratios?

It was indeed... This is after a pass with a light cut lad and polish with DA; After hand polishing for a while so I could drive the damn car... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Long time no speak buddy - you well? I tried to remove Hydr02 with a hand pad and an AIO (Triple) with little effect. It would have taken forever!

Because of the salt ;) it's not ideal to wash your car with Fairy, and by wash I mean contact washing. Not a jet over with a lance.

APC does not remove this. Fairy isn't an APC. It contains salts to remove crud from your crockery - it will thus not be any good for the cars paint (although that Scooby is pretty marred already, sorry James!). Tesco Daisy is perhaps what you guys are thinking of.

Unfortunately this stuff does react to certain toppings or can be susceptible to time it's left on the car - my car required a full going over with the DA when I tried to top C2V3 with it a year or two back. I recently used it on a never detailed new (to me) Golf and it works wonderfully. It...

Nice haul. Usual thing with "All In Ones" - they're not as good as dedicated products. Tardis and IronX remain the best.

Edit - re-read the description, ignore me! Sounds interesting!

Any pictures after a drive, i.e. showing the amount of dust and dirt oil attracts?!

C4 will not degrade when exposed to even the most harsh TFR due to its make up - it is chemical resistant. If the application became blotchy, it's unfortunately more likely there were parts of your surface that did not bond to the C4 (or rather it to the surface).

his does indeed work, but as you say, it takes high heat and a lot of checking.

Really...? Not true - TFR does not remove C4 as it forms a crystaline barrier. C4 will also not bring back the backness of plastics, nor will DLUX. You need to clean and prep the area then apply these products. If your plastics are very faded, Solution Finish is the best course of action.