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The car still plods on. We've done just over 2,000 miles since all the work and most things are working well. It's much more competent on the motorway with the extra power although on a recent run to Devon I only managed to get 48 mpg :eek: Good news that it's not using any oil after fixing all...

Thermostatic plates which have enough ports to also run oil pressure and temp gauges from. At the moment you either have to stack or run a non-thermostatic plate. For turbo conversions we found it difficult to identify fittings which wouldn't foul the internal restrictor on the garrett ball...

The wishbone holes are further out on the sports I believe. I've actually never measured myself but had it confirmed to me by someone that did. Swapping to a sport subframe will also give you the hole and opportunity to run the 4th gearbox mount.

My car with a full cage and no airbags had passed multiple times with no issues. The airbag ECU has been reprogrammed to ensure the light comes on and extinguishes as it should. Funny to see this thread come up as I actually spoke to an MOT only garage yesterday and he said he didn’t see a...

Looks like a fun day dude! Every time I see this I crave for an RB, especially one with clubsport spec nailed like yours. Not surprised you ached a bit, trackdays are a workout!

Rear seatbelt pretensioner

what are the chances! looks like a blaster than one!

not as fast as you think, I've done it a few times. Yes you have to keep it topped up but you can get the job done fine. Pressure washers use quite significantly less water than if you were to have a hose running. Increased pressure doesn't necessarily equate to increased volume

pressure washers don't require a water supply with any pressure. You can run them from a bucket if need be.

Oh yes, like the new turbo a lot, will be really good to see the results, especially as it’s a GTX. @Martin. ’s build has a GT2560R and the difference between the ED turbo and that is huge. Massive spool improvements and a much bigger area under the graph. Yours is perfectly set up for the 2860...

I'm sure people will lose their minds but I've had completely acceptable results with a drill and an £8 halfords foam pad in the past.

Will give a proper reply when I get a chance to read it all but that o ring on the oil feed is on the wrong side of the knobbly bit. I made that mistake before and it was very messy after only a few thousand miles. That will also be why the previous one was destroyed as it's likely been removed...

Yeah I was surprised at how reasonable it was. I suppose you have to balance the cost vs the frequency.

Don’t worry I sussed it. 48mm is the max with 0.02mm being the maximum permissible wear. Luckily all mine are spot on factory values. Everything is being measured, including the cam journals

I came across this recently removing ESP from a 182 and had the same issue when I put a 182 ECU in my cup. Even after changing the expected modules in the Airbag and UCH I still had the light. You need to do the same as @Brigsy suggests however, if the clocks are still showing after this then...

Oh and the radio stalk cruise control conversion works...up to 4th gear. Yet to try 5th but promising so far.

Automatrics - watched a few of their youtube videos and am pretty sold on the idea.

This is quite commonly the thermostat housing being warped allowing the two to mix. Change that first as MLS headgaskets very rarely fail.

Just saw you have a 2 bulb radio display so this makes sense, updates are 4 plcc-4 LEDs

Update list is from the ph3 onwards which yours is with it's digital dials. I would try and get an update list cabasse auditorium if you can as the sound quality is far superior to the standard ones. You can swap over the faceplate if you find one from a late 182. Update list uses an AUX...

Rebuilding my engine at the moment. I would just like a second pair of eyes on the below list of crank measurements and clearances, specifically the rod journals. How do you interpret the notation on the side as it's not like the mains? Thank you! If anyone has more documentation on the F4R...

Yes they will but you will need to swap the subframe, wishbones, hubs, driveshafts, and struts for sport items. I have a video on YouTube which shows you how.

I had mine done by a local engineering shop for £40. Quality of the welds was awesome.

The build is nearly at the point of starting full steam ahead now. Both the Cup and Black Gold have remained static for months, however, all should change in the next 6 weeks so. We've started stripping the engines so I can send a few things off for machining and blasting. So far the 23k bottom...

If you plug in into clip codes will be showing if the light is on. Lots of possible areas of fault.

That’s what ended up happening to me too, full respirated apart from the roof. Could have been avoided if the painter had got the base coat correct though

They should match well if the shade is well matched, spray out cards are used and it’s blended into the next panel. Often shops don’t mix their own paint and order without checking the shade. Had it a couple of times sadly. New vs old paint is sometimes very obvious though so a machine polish on...

Hammerite is awesome. Use it loads on the undercarriage and it takes tons of salty abuse before going bad.

Thanks for the reply. Previous one I did with hammerite, took forever! I did something very similar to the prep you list last time, just didn't spray it. Looking to speed up the process this time. No specific need for clear, would just like to have it looking good.