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just pump them up a bit. maybe more at the rear if there's the risk of any moshing going on in the back?

i'm new to the CupClub and would recommend taking someone who knows what they're about with you if you've a particular car in mind.. i mean that seriously too - there are some, potentially, v expensive problems out there.. go over it *thoroughly*; mechanicals as well as the usual visual...

don't know, but is there a valet switch/function on these alarms?

i'd just be grateful the f*cker works; it's not as if you can get in from 10m or anything..

would the injector not still have been supplying fuel? (i don't know) if it has, i'd have thought that the unburnt fuel could have thinned the oil - ? maybe not a concern over a short distance if that is the case - ?

mine had decent range until it started working intermittently about 2 hours ago. new battery as well. ffs.

i've similar sounding symptoms - dephaser has been diagnosed. in my case, it's a kind of shreek above about 5.5k; only at full throttle. best bet is to take it to a respected specialist for a diagnosis:)

been used in competition cars for ages although it's still rather impractical i'd have thought in a road car

not had it long enough to have taken many pics but here's one i took after a wash on Sat: some stunning photos in this thread - particularly liking the bronze coloured 106 - beautiful photo

right. thanks for that. part dash removal is a little more involved than i've time for tomorrow. think i'll just wedge something in there for the time being thanks for the link btw; looks handy

edde - sorry; should have said; it's the panel in the dash i'm trying to get out - the one with the clock in it. will have a go at pulling it out - thanks chaps

i'm wanting to remove the centre panel (that contains the coin tray) from the middle of my dash so that i can stick some pads underneath it to cure its rattle can anyone advise - does it just prise off or is it more complicated than that? thanks

i've been quoted £120 by my local dealer and have been told that there are two different key types - the earlier one (being the one i have - '52 Cup) being the cheaper

JLAudio?

that's the biggest nause about looking at s/hand cars - you can work with people who aren't particularly into cars but people who lie are just such a PITA one of the cars i went to look at before i bought mine was advertised on here; drove from Bristol to Leicester to have a look (after having...

Mondeo

thanks:) is it all as straight forward as it seems? no hidden extras or any of that?

http://threestore.three.co.uk/offerdetails.aspx?offercode=18T15D027 i know nowt about this kind of thing and am just wondering if that^ is any good - ?

yep - cheers for the cut&paste

http://www.thisisbristol.co.uk/displayNode.jsp?nodeId=144936&command=displayContent&sourceNode=144919&contentPK=17883203&moduleName=InternalSearch&formname=sidebarsearch

not an expert in these matters but isn't that just a Renault Clio with gold coloured wheels?:quiet:

what were you doing at the time? just accelerating steadily in a straight line? would immediately have thought 'puncture' but if your tyres are OK it obv can't be that can't see diesel (etc) causing it either in those circumstances. weird one

been going to the Action Days for 15y+ and, to be fair, they have gotten alot better (!) still a massive risk though; it's expensive, but the best way to experience the track is on a 'proper' track day - no goonery going on some horrible looking smashes there - the worst due to people...

BMX don't have gears?

smaller rolling radius = lower gearing = quicker acceleration; in theory speedo will need recalibrating too

before spending any money, it's worth taking them out and (copper) greasing the backs to see if that helps - ? don't know, but are they fitted with anti-squeak shims? maybe try a new set if they are a finger's width suggests there's plenty of meat left on them ed. as MrMark

PS. you may well now have to bleed the brakes if you've undone the bleed nipple..

take it out for a run and give the brakes a good work out; hop out and have a look at your discs: if they've been cleaned up by the pads, you've nowt to worry about if any of them are still rusty, you've a problem as the pads can't be acting against the discs as they should discs are mild...

rusty discs are perfectly normal but it does sound as though you've got some kind of caliper piston problem if they're still rusty immediately after having used the brakes you don't need to bleed the brakes but i'd check the pads are fitted properly and that the piston moves OK to start with

mine does this; i'm going to start by fitting some of these top mount fix washers and see what that does