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apart from the hassle, roll cages can be dangerous in road cars imo. unless you're wearing a helmet, in the event of an accident you're drastically increasing the possibility of serious head injury

you need a gypsy

could it be the battery in the fob? recently had similar bother

cheers if i were in the same boat, i'd deffo be looking for a Trophy. do they command much of a premium over Cups of similar age?

the Trophy only has remote reservoirs at the front? are the rears just standard or uprated to compliment?

172 Cup so far, 7/10 that'll go up once i sort a few mechanical probs and get it on track - feels as though it'll be a right laugh on track never be more than 9/10 though - the gearbox is too much of a shame

^ ideally, you should re-track the car after having replaced any major components as it'll likely have disturbed the alignment of everything else (even if you've replaced like for like). everything flexes anyway; if you put a car up on a full chassis alignment ramp, you can push the various...

don't forget the inspection service - there'll be quite a bit to check over; stuff like the suspension and brakes. a Haynes manual would help

thanks for the replies i don't think that auxilliary lamps are testable (?) so that, hopefully, wouldn't be an issue i was wondering what lamp units might fit and how to go about rewiring the stalk. i did think about splicing into the h'lamp wiring but think it'd be best to attempt to do it...

that particular type of rolling road is well known to produce low numbers. the most important thing in RR tuning is the operator and how well they set the car up - the road is just a tool. it's not Powerstation is it?

197 is 18.9mph/1000rpm; DCI (i believe) is 33.3mph/1000rpm - it's a turbo diesel gear and would be way too high probably only need to lengthen by 10-15% to make an appreciable difference - ?

Front fogs are practically useless in this country and I fancy swapping the units for driving lamps (a la 205 GTi) and wiring them in to the main beam switch. Has anyone done this? Thanks

blimey. some expensive options you've got there! i realise that it'll help with fuel economy but how's reducing weight going to alter engine speed at cruise? would it not just be possible to swap to a taller 6th cog?

if it were green and the rear spoiler bigger, it'd look just like my lawnmower

they're both due at 72k/4years (according to my handbook anyway) it's highly unlikely (imo) that they would have touched a thing unless they'd been asked to. 1L of antifreeze is going to give you a very weak coolant solution if they did change it. i'm guessing that they're just top-ups no...

some do - some don't. need to check your policy documents

seen this before - really, really lucky! he was, apparently, running A048s - don't know how experienced he was on them but maybe they caught him out. dumb track to be experimenting with track tyres on if so

i'll vote 'save'

i've had similar sounding problems. the constant disconnecting was thought to be a BT line fault - so they arranged to have a BT engineer come out to fix things. Tiscali were a real pain to deal with - it took over a month of repeated telephone calls (which were expensive!) to have them arrange...

lever movement won't be the clutch - maybe the linkages under the car or the selector forks in the box? i'd take it to an indie specialist for a diagnosis. . gearbox will be covered under the statutory new car warranty (but that only lasts for a year, unless you extended it)

as Danlp6 - it's not difficult to do although probably not a good idea with a Renault gearbox..!

do you like the colour on a car? i do and most of my previous cars have been black; would have no problem with another.

Get a European Health Insurance Card too if you've not already got one. As mentioned, Insure & Go did cover us on the 'ring with one of their standard policies - although I'm now sure that the public liability cover was specifically excluded.

got to love the money - you jammer!

Insure&Go covered me and a mate - although I think the public liability cover was removed. PS. That's travel insurance - not car insurance.

only if the car's set up to run on it i'd have thought. ignition timing would need advancing to take full benefit. BP were offering 102/3 RON (i believe) at selected forecourts a while back - £2.50/litre..

^ditto. looking forward to giving mine its first spanking. it's the daily driver until then. MarkCup - can I ask, is it as good a track car as it already feels it should be? (gearbox aside..)

mine seems fine on the motorway for what it is. not at all noisy IMO. the ride's not great and it tramlines in truck ruts etc - but that's just down to the chassis and (again) the type of car it is. can't have your cake as the saying goes

yes. change all of it though. . practically speaking, the only fluids that you can't mix these days are silicone and glycol. the vast majority are glycol (as is Response) and it's highly unlikely you've got silicone in there at the moment.

IIRC the Renault schedule suggests that the brake fluid should be changed every 4 years. it's porous and loses it's efficiency over time. if you're going to use a 'performance' fluid, you'd deffo need to change all of it to see whatever benefit might be there (not just bleed it - although...