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Oh my god it's on fooking fire Lol

Looks like you had a perfect day Keith. Would love to do a day there sometime with the clio guys. Less radicals though!!!

just done it

@Akay @markmcgivern

Okay chaps here we are. I've put together an excel sheet with pin out details of the connector into the EPAS ECU. There's a diagram in there too which should be self explanatory. https://www.dropbox.com/s/7cmvsr40rrv37jp/Power%20Steering%20Wiring.xlsx?dl=0 To get the factory wiring it's pin...

That could definitely be the problem. The pretensioner in the belt may have fired.

You actually remove the wire and pins from the OEM connectors. It's possible to run a total OEM set up with oem pins, wire and fuse conenctors. There is a place in the engine bay fusebox to clip on the additional fuse. It's a 60a. Will get the wiring this afternoon for you when I'm home.

You'd fuse at the start of the run so it would be at the end furthest from the PS ECU preferably before it enters the cabin. For the OEM wiring you have to remove it from the dash loom of a car in the scrappies, put a pin in the interior side and then a pin in the exterior side. It's actually...

@Akay I used 8 AWG wire in my original set up a few years ago and it was more than sufficient. Use this site to work out as it depends on how long the wire run is. http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html My personal preferance would be to install OEM wiring which you can...

Perfect then! My first move would be to run a diode set up. I've included a really basic diagram which I hope is easy to understand. It's the first time I've used the software so it might be turd. Otherwise you need to double the rpm at which the light flashes as the light will think the engine...

Brainwave. What about connecting a wire from the 2-3 cylinder signal and one from the 1-4 line into the signal wire for the shift light and then putting a diode in each wire to stop back flow of the current sparking the wrong cylinders. Does it say on the instructions how many pulses it expect...

Quite possibly, the fluid is certainly more prone to boil over if it's not changed at the interval (whatever that is!). It is strange though that it would happen when not pushing as hard. Pumps on these aren't the best and do whine/bust. I've heard of it a few times before. Hopefully the pump...

got a link to the light?

Sounds like the fluid boiled on the track day. From what I understand the rack has some kind of valve it which may be playing up. The pressure switch would usually register a fault if broken.

@markmcgivern You can't fit a 6pk, it rubs on the cambelt casing, hence 5pk. As above though, set ups have been fine with less than 6. There's a lot less to turn than the original set up.

what shift light is it? is there the facility to change how it picks up the rpm?

This is what I used on mine to stop the tank pressurising and everywhere smelling of fumes. Has to be mounted vertically so worth thinking about how you're going to mount it before chopping pipes. I had mine in the rear arch...

Yeah it looks like the right tools. The large plate should have a load of cogs with it. The horseshoe is the one that bends. Yeah they are easily identifyable as genuine items but don't come up for sale often at all and when they do go very fast. Horseshoe is on backorder currently.

Most people will recommend using genuine Renault tools as non-gen will bend causing the cam timing to be out. Renault do sell the tools but from what I understand there aren't any available at the moment! I'm after some too. They're about £150 brand new. I would do it myself and wouldn't...

That wire needs to go onto one of the coil pack wires. The rev counter is controlled by canbus so there isn't an engine rpm signal going into the clocks as such. @Martin. and I fitted one of these a couple of weeks ago. We ran the wire through the bulkhead and into the engine loom sheathing...

bad connections to one of the airbag. Likely connections under seats but need to look at codes to find out once and for all

I have that bumper problem too.... I'm going to put pins on the front to keep the panel gap and then latches on the side.

Seems to be a pretty good place only down the road from me so will drop some bits there. This is exactly why I love the forum. Huge amount of knowledge! My first mechcanical job ever before even oil and brakes was putting a new cylinder kit on my 50cc ped 8 years ago (I feel old now) to make it...

Thanks for the advice everyone. The process has become a lot clearer in my head. Can these measurements be done by me then or best done by a shop? Micrometers are rather pricey and looks like I'll need at least three.

Damn right it does. Do you batch edit the photos? I've only just got a copy so am trying to work out what the best way to make hundreds of similar photos look a lot better.

I got two genuine ones for my 182 recently for £54 including delivery. Take of the central heatshield, slaken off the 13mm nut, take out the old cables, remove the white bit on the cable which goes into the bodyshell, some wiggling with mole grips helps. Unclip from the back of the caliper...

@NorthloopCup absolutely perfect mate, thank you! Just found some specs deep in a document which on first glance match those above. I'm in no rush for the prep work so will get everything measured properly. Assume this isn't something I can do at home and is best done by a machine shop. £12! I'm...

Low oil pressure sounds great! Will check everything. Eventually car's going to have low pressure boost so needs to be strong without trickling oil pressure. 438's will be swapped out again for this though.

Cheer Mark, great info. Pretty certain James had the block measured and it's still 82.7 so standard rings. All other internals will will be from my cup so will be checked when out. I was thinking of trying to get hasting rings from the US. Remember what size feeler off hand? I've been through...

I absolutely deliver Daniel! I actually have 6 weeks off but have allocated this time at the start to get the engine done flat out. All in the preparation!